Type: Trad, Ice, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: 7/11/18
Page Views: 343 total · 11/month
Shared By: Matt Hopkins on Apr 3, 2019
Admins: Tony Yeary

You & This Route

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Montezuma's revenge WI6, 35M
FA: 7/11/18 
Matthew Ward, Matt Hopkins USA

If you could grade an Ice climb on the nerves and health of the climbers on it, this one would be off the charts!.  Matt Ward had just put down a handful of antibiotics that he scrounged up while in Peru a week earlier, just to get out of bed. My nerves and physical strength were worked due to the fact we were at 16,000 feet climbing ice and the fact this ice was way more gnarly than what we could tell from the road.
I started up the spongy mushroom ice to a belay shelf were I knew it was the end of my leading road. Ward lowered me to his stance where we switched rolls and he climbed his way to my high point then continued up, in mixed fashion, above the mushrooms to the overhanging daggers that made up the high curtain of the climb. It topped out onto a run out traverse to a belay in rotten ice. I then followed on what I would feel the scariest climb I had ever been on at that time, where a fall with rope stretch could have lead to serious injury.  Definitely worth the climb with the right head and experience in WI5+ terrain. Rescues in that area are unlikely and if possible not timely. Be careful with this one.


Left of Attic Boys and the longest route on this cliff band.


Ice screws, long slings, fixed pecker in rock left of Matt in photo.