Type: Sport, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: A. Miller
Page Views: 521 total · 16/month
Shared By: A Miller on Apr 1, 2019
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Unlikely, but good movement starting from a stance atop a displaced boulder below the cliff bypasses the unconsolidated band of sunset-hued mudstone that underlies the substantially welded, black basalt. Shorter folks may want to stack an additional rock on top of the boulder to reach the first big holds. My 5' 2" wife managed it with a 4" rock.

Find moderate but elegantly flowing movement with "easter-egg" surprises in the form of pockets and other features that make the climbing a true joy. From a comfortable ledge stance, you will be beckoned out to an airy and memorable prow via an obvious set of skull-eye pockets appearing high left, leading to a bank of generous holds; from here, continuously good but slightly wicked movement will advance you through the crux and another 40' of stunning position.
 (route name courtesy of the genius of A. Gulley, a formerly, and respectably-strong local climber who fell victim to the siren-call of mtn biking years ago.)

Location

The strikingly obvious arete is accessed from the walkway at the south end of this sector. Start by balancing atop a boulder to reach the first bolt, and a hidden jug out right that enables a surprisingly trivial and fun passage to the wall (despite its appearance from the ground). At the fourth bolt, follow the bolt line right, into the right-facing dihedral before venturing back onto the wildly-exposed arete. If you accidentally take the left boltline, you will soon realize your 5.14 mistake.

Protection

11 bolts to anchor. Thanks to J. Smith for installing the anchor for a trad project to the left.

Photos

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