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Kelley Route 12

5.11-, Trad, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 14 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Beach
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

A zig-zagging line which appears to go through a small roof (looks like the crux, but isn't).  Goes through all the sizes from #0.5 to #4 at the top.  More fun than it looks.  The new guidebook suggests #0.4-#2.  The crux is the undulating crack through the middle at #0.75-#1.

Location

Right where the trail drops you off.  Just left of an unknown corner and a new, super-sweet TINY finger tips crack (no plaque yet).

Protection

#0.5-#4. Only need 1 #4 at the top; can ignore if you're comfortable at the size. Webbing could use replacement.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The wider top section.
[Hide Photo] The wider top section.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

grog m
Saltlakecity
 
[Hide Comment] Really fun. I took doubles 0.75-3 and placed them in that order. The roof looks intimidating at first...but there is a creative, FUN, way to do it that simplifies it greatly. Crux was midway for me in the #1s section. The slaydies with us found the top, #3 section to be tougher. Oct 28, 2019
Mark Thomas
Broomfield, CO
[Hide Comment] This is route #12 in the Creek Freak book. Sep 27, 2020