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Routes in 5 - Whippersnapper Wall
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Blood S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Canyon of the Crescent Moon S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Canyon of the Crescent Moon (Full Moon Extension) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cross of Coronado, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Curse of the Jackal S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Don't Call me Junior! S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Golden Fleece, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hang the DJ S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Iron Phoenix S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Knowledge was their Treasure S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Misery and Gin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Mutton Buster S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Ol’ Dusty Trail S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Raiders of the Lost Crack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Redpoint Redemption S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stags in Rut S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Temple of Doom S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Temple of the Sun S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 31.69331, -110.43068 |
| FA: | Cory Hanson |
| Page Views: | 952 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | cory hanson on Mar 30, 2019 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Private land crossing and parking information - PLEASE READ BELOW !
Details
You walk across private land to enter this area. The landowner has been tolerant so long as we don't disturb his land or his cattle. To keep a good relationship with him it is extremely important that climbers don't mess with grazing cattle, and that ALL GATES STAY AS THEY ARE FOUND. Also, the large gate on the north side of the parking area MUST NOT BE BLOCKED IN ANY WAY; the rancher regularly uses this gate as he drives a truck pulling a large trailer, so the road leading to said gate MUST STAY CLEAR by least 40 feet on all sides, including the road perpendicular to it (running east-west). If the parking area is full, drive past the bridge and park on the next pullout (not far), and NEVER BY THE GATE.
Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.
Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.
Description
Follow a series of weaknesses just to the right of the prominent orange streak on the Whippersnapper Prow. Once you reach the chain draw (the 6th draw) below the small bulge climb up and left to a hole and then traverse right into the next hole and climb onto edges on brown slab. Rejoin the subtle arête above and climb to a large undercling. Climb up and left into a scoop and then traverse right to finish one draw higher through easier terrain.
This climb shares the first 6 draws of Hang the DJ. It is possible to climb up the ledges to the right of the 6th draw and then back left onto the climb. Doing this is fine and likely does not change the grade of the climb, however, this path is definitely less fun.
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