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A River Runs Up It

5.8+ A0 R, Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 3 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: P I R. Suggett and Z. Warren, P II & III Z. Warren and R. Suggett
Utah > Color Country C… > Side Canyon > Friable Tower


You must be an experienced and unflappable climber with creative gear techniques in your bag of tricks.  P I - Starts with fun moves protected by a bolt, then, rock quality degrades.  Then you reach the main chimney and a two bolt anchor.  All you need/get to reach this first anchor is a 4' runner and a .75.  P II  The crux/very scary pitch, needs a ton of gear and huts-pah.  P III is short and only summits the cap rock precariously perched (barley) atop the tower.  This is good rock and most likely will go free at 10+, we aided as we set bolts.  Summit, then back off on one bolt to the rap anchor at the base of the cap.


Starts on a gravel slope where a chimney forms on the southeast wall.


Tricams are a must!  Place in erosion pockets. Lots of runners and two 70 m ropes. See picture below for the other important details.

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A River Runs Up It Topo
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200' Tower
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[Hide Photo] Summit
This and more!
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Warren 1/3 up P II
[Hide Photo] Warren 1/3 up P II