Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: P I R. Suggett and Z. Warren, P II & III Z. Warren and R. Suggett
Page Views: 183 total · 19/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Mar 29, 2019
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

You must be an experienced and unflappable climber with creative gear techniques in your bag of tricks.  P I - Starts with fun moves protected by a bolt, then, rock quality degrades.  Then you reach the main chimney and a two bolt anchor.  All you need/get to reach this first anchor is a 4' runner and a .75.  P II  The crux/very scary pitch, needs a ton of gear and huts-pah.  P III is short and only summits the cap rock precariously perched (barley) atop the tower.  This is good rock and most likely will go free at 10+, we aided as we set bolts.  Summit, then back off on one bolt to the rap anchor at the base of the cap.

Location

Starts on a gravel slope where a chimney forms on the southeast wall.

Protection

Tricams are a must!  Place in erosion pockets. Lots of runners and two 70 m ropes. See picture below for the other important details.

Photos

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