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Oblivion

5.10+, Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: P R Littlejohn, Feb 1976
International > Europe > United Kingdom > England > S West > Avon Gorge > Suspension Bridge But…

Description

Listed as E3 5c (arguably E2). Can be split into 2 pitches, but would recommend as 1 straight through.  

P1:  Go up as for Howhard at the right end of the dirt ledge, but diverge left with the line of pockets. Continue up to an optional semi-hanging belay on fixed pins and backup gear in the horizontal break.

P2: Head left along the break to another pin and head up on hidden holds (if you hit the white face with a thin crack, you've gone too far, this is GT Special) to an eventual hand crack above.  Continue up ledges to rock anchor / rappel point.

Linking P1 Earl of Perth and P2 of Oblivion also makes a nice 5.10 / E2 route.

Location

Shares start with Howhard, at the far right end of the dirt ledge belay area.  Can secure the initial belay on the naked bolt sticking up.

Protection

Slings for threads, fixed pins, nuts, single set cams up to BD#2, maybe tricams

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Suspension Buttress Main Face
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1 Suspension Bridge Arete (HVS 5a)
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2 Suspense (HVS 5a)
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3 Baby Duck (E1 5b)
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4 Beginnings (E2 5c)
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5 Limbo (E1 5b)
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6 GT Special ('E4' 5c)
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7 Earl of Perth (E1 5b)
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8 Oblivion ('E3' 5c)
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9 Howhard (E1 5b)
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10 Hell Gates (HV
[Hide Photo] Suspension Buttress Main Face 1 Suspension Bridge Arete (HVS 5a) 2 Suspense (HVS 5a) 3 Baby Duck (E1 5b) 4 Beginnings (E2 5c) 5 Limbo (E1 5b) 6 GT Special ('E4' 5c) 7 Earl of Perth (E1 5b)…