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Unknown North-East Crack (Camino Route?)
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Off Balanced Rock
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Northeast Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Unknown North-East Crack (Camino Route?) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 175 ft (53 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 730 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Davis Badger on Mar 25, 2019 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions
Details
Check Raptor closure status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This is an unfinished entry, as I could not find much information on this route elsewhere. I believe it is "Camino Route" (5.10+) as published in Eric Bjornstad's guidebook "Desert Rock", but I haven't been able to get my hands on the book to check. I wanted to prevent other climbers from mistaking it for the Northeast Chimney. Has some interesting movement on it, and if it cleaned up a little, could be a very nice addition to the rock.
This route follows the north-eastern crack system, which splits into an interesting double crack system about 20 ft off the ground. Instead of jamming I found that climbing the awkward double crack system like a wide chimney was the best way to go about it. The route works its way into a small triangular chimney before stopping at possibly one of the worst anchors I have ever seen outdoors at the top of P1. 75ft, 5.9.
The route continues on to the south of the sketchy anchor, leading into a proper chimney of unknown difficulty. After seeing the P1 anchor I decided to rap down and change my now soiled underwear.
THE ANCHOR:
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The pitch 1 anchor on this route is a mess of a couple of strands of sun-bleached, half-torn webbing (I unfortunately had no replacement webbing on my ascent), wrapped around a large eroding, mud, golf ball. I left a 2nd quicklink for the next climber, but the next climber will inevitably want to switch out the webbing, or find a better spot for this anchor all together.
This route follows the north-eastern crack system, which splits into an interesting double crack system about 20 ft off the ground. Instead of jamming I found that climbing the awkward double crack system like a wide chimney was the best way to go about it. The route works its way into a small triangular chimney before stopping at possibly one of the worst anchors I have ever seen outdoors at the top of P1. 75ft, 5.9.
The route continues on to the south of the sketchy anchor, leading into a proper chimney of unknown difficulty. After seeing the P1 anchor I decided to rap down and change my now soiled underwear.
THE ANCHOR:
Location
Park at the balanced rock formation pullout, walk around the north side of Off-Balanced Rock (Walking in the storm washes as much as possible. until you see the mellow crack system headed up on the north east side of the formation.
Note: This climb is NORTH of the two large boulders, while the easier, standard north-east chimney route starts SOUTH of these large boulders.
Note: This climb is NORTH of the two large boulders, while the easier, standard north-east chimney route starts SOUTH of these large boulders.
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