Type: Trad, 175 ft (53 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 440 total · 13/month
Shared By: Davis Badger on Mar 25, 2019
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

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Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is an unfinished entry, as I could not find much information on this route elsewhere. I believe it is "Camino Route" (5.10+) as published in Eric Bjornstad's guidebook "Desert Rock", but I haven't been able to get my hands on the book to check. I wanted to prevent other climbers from mistaking it for the Northeast Chimney. Has some interesting movement on it, and if it cleaned up a little, could be a very nice addition to the rock.

This route follows the north-eastern crack system, which splits into an interesting double crack system about 20 ft off the ground. Instead of jamming I found that climbing the awkward double crack system like a wide chimney was the best way to go about it. The route works its way into a small triangular chimney before stopping at possibly one of the worst anchors I have ever seen outdoors at the top of P1. 75ft, 5.9.

The route continues on to the south of the sketchy anchor, leading into a proper chimney of unknown difficulty. After seeing the P1 anchor I decided to rap down and change my now soiled underwear.

THE ANCHOR: 
The pitch 1 anchor on this route is a mess of a couple of strands of sun-bleached, half-torn webbing (I unfortunately had no replacement webbing on my ascent), wrapped around a large eroding, mud, golf ball. I left a 2nd quicklink for the next climber, but the next climber will inevitably want to switch out the webbing, or find a better spot for this anchor all together.

Location

Park at the balanced rock formation pullout, walk around the north side of Off-Balanced Rock (Walking in the storm washes as much as possible. until you see the mellow crack system headed up on the north east side of the formation.

Note: This climb is NORTH of the two large boulders, while the easier, standard north-east chimney route starts SOUTH of these large boulders.

Protection

(P1) Singles .4 - 4 A couple doubles in finger sizes, and a rack of nuts (P2) Unknown

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