Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 57 total · 11/month
Shared By: Alex Schmies on Mar 24, 2019
Admins:

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The standard route for Single Cone is a multi-pitch climb of the southeast chimney high on the east face, Grade 1 (YDS 4 to 5.2). For most of the year the chimney/gully is filled with snow or ice, but during mid to late summer it can become fully melted-out making the second pitch more of a walk/scramble. Even on the easiest standard route, exposure is significant. Most parties opt to use a rope and protection. There are 3 double-bolted abseil anchors inside the chimney and one at the base. If the gully is free of snow a 30 meter rope will suffice, but otherwise a 50 meter or 60 meter is recommended. Also many of the cracks on the first pitch are flared, so cams will place better than chocks.
The first pitch below the chimney is the steepest but is easy to protect. Make sure to begin far enough to the right when at the base of this wall. If you climb up directly below the chimney, gear opportunities are scarce. You can belay your partner on the abseil anchors. A small assortment of medium cams should be all you need.
The second pitch inside the chimney will be more interesting if snow is present and might require ice tools and crampons depending on conditions.
At the top of the chimney pass through a notch, out onto the upper southwest face. The summit is not far away now. Scramble up to the crest and then it's just an easy walk to the north along a pleasantly narrow ridge.

Location

From the ski area hike up the lift access road turning left at the first junction and right at the second. At the end of the road find the start of the Alta Lake trail.
From the lake, both Single Cone and Double Cone are visible above, as well as Wye Pass to the left (east) of the peaks.  Hike south from the outlet of the lake over talus rocks and find a climbers path leading up to the pass.
From the pass at 1970 meters turn right (west) and ascend to a small plateau south of the lake. Continue south by southwest to reach the southeast ridge.
As you get closer to the peak, the chimney will become more apparent. Ascend small gullies and slabs to near the crest of the southeast ridge and then traverse to the base of the wall below the chimney.
The first pitch below the chimney is the steepest but is easy to protect. Make sure to begin far enough to the right when at the base of this wall. If you climb up directly below the chimney, gear opportunities are scarce. You can belay your partner on the abseil anchors. A small assortment of medium cams should be all you need.

Protection

Gear and some bolted anchors

Photos

0 Comments