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Unnamed (#11 in new Creek Freak guide)
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 1 from 1
vote
Routes in Bioturbation Wall
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Acid Rain T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Aeon Flux T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Alienation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Biomass T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bioturbation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bruce Lee as FUCK T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Calibration T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Captain Crunchbot T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Captian Kangaroo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Chalking Up Rails T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Chest Full of Kind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cups T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Elation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Evacuation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jack-O-Lation T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Just the Tips T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Lee-Tardation T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Lifer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Regime Change T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Scrunch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Turbinado T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed (#11 in new Creek Freak guide) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed 5.11 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 704 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Karl kelley on Mar 22, 2019 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
At the time I wrote Creek Freak, I did not climb this route nor did I find anyone that had. Just climbed this awkward route 3/2019.
The route starts with a "ground leaving crux" to establish yourself in a wedge/flare. Climb the flare to a narrow shallow chimney with a thin fingers crack in it. At the top of said chimney the second crux is passed by exiting the chimney to a shallow right facing corner. Climb the less than vertical corner with fingers to a 2 bolt anchor on the right wall.
The route starts with a "ground leaving crux" to establish yourself in a wedge/flare. Climb the flare to a narrow shallow chimney with a thin fingers crack in it. At the top of said chimney the second crux is passed by exiting the chimney to a shallow right facing corner. Climb the less than vertical corner with fingers to a 2 bolt anchor on the right wall.
Photos
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