Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Todd Bibler, Dave Anderson, Carl Hosen, 1981
Page Views: 334 total · 12/month
Shared By: Sam Skovgaard on Mar 21, 2019
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Description

Starts with some chimney moves, then shifts right to follow a crack system.  The crack at the bottom is very small, then it gradually widens to fingers, then hands, then fists at the top.  There are also a few good mantle moves which will test your balance. The grainy granite here is very sharp, taping up or crack gloves recommended.

The route protects well overall.  The bottom protects mostly with small nuts (plenty of places to fit some offset micronuts if you have them).  The crux reach move can be protected with a red tricam.  The upper half protects easily with cams.

Squeezing the Lemmon lists this as 5.9+, but I disagree.  The crux involves several consecutive hard pulls on small edges with long reaches.  It's significantly harder than Mind Flash, which I agree is a solid 5.9.

Location

The left crack system on Neon Rock

Protection

Nuts, offset micronuts are nice to have, red tricam for the crux move, cams to Camelot #3. No anchors at the top, but can belay a second from the anchors at the top of Mind Flash then rap down or walk off. Toprope would require a long static rope anchored to a big tree set back from the top and a rope protector for the sharp edge

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