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Gold Arch

5.12b, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 3 from 13 votes
FA: FA - R. McGown, D. Bower, T. Yates '78; FMFA - Stark Ligon, Spring '19
Oregon > Portland & The… > Broughton Bluff > (6) Bat Wall

Description

This obvious steep, right angling crack feature sat dormant and covered with jungle for many years. Recently unearthed and equipped with bolts (I left many of the old fixed pieces of protection in place for historical context), Gold Arch joins near the top of the ranks amongst a wall already stacked with excellent 5.12s. Bring your crack skills for this one!

Start either on Grave Digger for the first 4 bolts (5.11- and probably best way) or on the original Gold Arch start (which is a few feet left of Dark Arts, 5.11-, and a bit less classic) to gain a good stance below a steep flaring corner system. Tackle the difficult roof (crux) past the fixed draw to gain a stance and access to the elegant right angling finger crack. Finish with tricky moves to a good ledge and anchors at 65'.  

Or for extra points skip the first set of anchors and head up and left and link into the original 2nd pitch of Gold Arch for 40 more feet and 6 bolts of excellent climbing (5.11c). The full route, Gold Arch p1 and p.2 combined, is called "Full Gold" and stops right at the 100' mark. Watch your ends on a 60m rope.

Location

Right Side of Bat Wall. A few feet left of Dark Arts. 

Protection

10 bolts and anchors with mussy hooks for 1st pitch, 1 permadraw
6 bolts and anchors with mussy hooks for 2nd pitch
16 bolts combined.....

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Me trying hard to stay on through the high crux of Gold Arch. Photo credit: Lucas Arredondo. August 2022
[Hide Photo] Me trying hard to stay on through the high crux of Gold Arch. Photo credit: Lucas Arredondo. August 2022
Gold Arch Topo
[Hide Photo] Gold Arch Topo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Stark, what is FMFA? I assume you’re getting the green light from Bob and/or others for the recent retro-bolting?

Chad Mar 19, 2019
Travis Melin
Portland, OR
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Awesome route! Full gold is a classic. As with many routes up here it often needs some brushing. As such, it is worthwhile to note that this route can be easily brushed after warming up on dark arts by an easy tension traverse down from that anchor to the anchor of Gold Arch. Grave digger start is excellent and stays pretty clean and is probably the best way to do this route without having to climb with a broom. Feb 22, 2020
dmPete
  5.12b/c
[Hide Comment] I like this route...a whole lot less than most of the other 12s on Bat Wall. Mar 27, 2023