Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FRA: Derek & Giselle Field (2019)
Page Views: 104 total · 34/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Mar 18, 2019
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This chimney looks like it would be a heinous squeeze-fest but a good portion of the climbing is done using face holds and stemming on the outer edge. The hardest moves are down low (entering the chimney via a right-facing layback, then ascending a fingercrack on the left wall) and are very well protected. About halfway up, the auxiliary cracks begin taper out and then disappear altogether, setting up a very exciting runout to the top. The climbing is sustained 5.7/8 jug-hauling for 30+ feet, though you may be lucky enough to find a small offset nut placement along the way.

Location

This west-facing chimney on the far left side of the main Slot Club Wall is in fact the analogue crack to The Bathypelagic Zone (i.e. the chimney extends all the way through the formation). The base of this route is exactly at the top of the 4th-class section on your way up/down to/from the higher tier.

Protection

Single rack to 2" + nuts (offset nuts useful)

Photos

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