Connect with Facebook
All Locations >
International
> N America
> Mexico
> Nuevo Leon
> El Potrero Chico
> El Toro (The Fr…
> Beyond Plutonia
La Sombra Luminosa
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British PG13
Avg: 3.5 from 15
votes
Routes in Beyond Plutonia
|
|
Dos Cabrones y sus Cinturones S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
La Sombra Del Viento S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
La Sombra Luminosa S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Señorita Woblita S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, 2600 ft (788 m), 27 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Eric Werfel & Seth Williams, FFA Jacob Cook & Drew Marshall |
| Page Views: | 3,330 total · 65/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Werfel on Mar 18, 2019 |
| Admins: | MAKB, Rudy Peckham, Hank Caylor, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·Your Star Rating:
Description
27 pitches, 5.12c / 5.11 A0
bolted by: Eric Werfel, w/ much help
FA: Eric Werfel and Seth Williams
FFA: Drew Marshall and Jacob Jacob
a seriously committing, but fun adventure!!!
The 'Approach' (pitches 1-6)
1***-2**: 5.10+, 5.10+ (overhanging corner, technical, balanced, Sustained. welcome crack up top. Some loose rock)
3-4*: 5.9, 5.8 (chossy alpine arete to a stem box)
5-6: 5.8, 5.8 (series of pillars, easy traverse)
optional bivy ledge here: sleeping bags / pads stashed at back of ledge
The Headwall (7-15):
7: 5.4 (shared w/ Paguvi, chossy gully)
8**-9*: 5.11+/ 5.10A0, 5.9 (flaring off-width, corner chimney, small roof)
10**-11**: 5.10, 5.11 (corner, crack,traverse, sustained technical face)
12**-13**: 5.11+,5.11- (more technical face. Still sustained...)
14**: 5.11- / 5.10A0 (calcite traverse under roof)
15****: 5.12c/ 5.10A0 (the crux, and money pitch!!! perfect dihedral, with dimples on one side. Bolt-laddered through the crux)
nice ledge
Upper Pitches (16-27):
16*-17*: 5.10, 5.9 (flaring crack system to a stem-box)
18: 5.9+ (pleasant off-width, cool traverse, some gardening)
19***: 5.10 (beautiful corner to an airy traverse)
20*: 5.11+/5.10+A0 (blank slab/face to double-crack)
21*: 5.9 (ledge traverse, corner off-width)
22*-23*: 5.10, 5.9+ (ledge traverse, corner/gully, traverse, face. a little PG; could use cleaning)
24*-25: 5.9,5.8 (around arete, up corner, around another arete, up gully, ledge traverse... big drag at end if you link, but ur walking a ledge)
26**-27*: 5.10,5.7 (up clean face / cracks to corner, past the window, over the ridge, cross gully, finish up blocks)
Descent.. WALK OFF!!! from the northern summit, walk the knife-edge ridge to the southern summit, turn right, roughly following the ridgeline (but staying slightly below on the southern side) to a notch. one rappel into the col (use your rope and rappel straight over the edge; the manky fixed lines going climbers right are for access coming up). cross the col, and hike back up a gully to the ridgeline to join the Toro trail at the cross (cross is no longer there).
Linking:
most pitches are between 25-30m. all can be rappeled with 60m. most can be linked; 14,15, and 18 you probably want to pitch out. 7 too (or just solo it). 19 and above, use your judgement. they are all possible to link, but drag will be an issue. we (FA team) linked 20-21 and 24-25.
SAFETY NOTES!!
- this is not just a long 'sport' route, ie Timewave. it is a different beast, altogether. very alpine, adventure climbing. major commitment, big exposure, traverses, some choss, etc... this is more bolted alpine mountaineering than it is sport climbing.
- route is still new. until the route sees more traffic, there is still some loose rock. pitches 3 and 7 are particularly chossy, but on very easy rock. pitches 22-23 are also a little dirty, on 5.9-5.10 climbing, making them PG13.
- you can bail reasonably well through pitch 17. pitch 18 (`aka the 'Garden Traverse') would present problems rapelling, except it currently has two fixed lines, making bailing from above a temporary option; one has a core shot, the other is good as of last inspection, but should not be trusted without inspection. IN THEORY, the whole thing can be rappeled, but after 18, you SHOULD plan on finishing.
- above pitch 20 or so, not all stations are equipped with rappel rings. above this point, you really should finish, but if you need to rappel, be prepared to leave gear
- pitches 5 and 6 are currently difficult to rappel, due in part to the traverse, but more so the lack of rings on the 6 anchor (the rope pinches). there is currently a fixed rope. it is in good condition as of this writing. two quicklinks on the pitch 6 anchor should solve the problem (there are two clipped to the top of the first fixed line. the next person up could please leave them on pitch 6?). i forget if 5 has rappel rings. be prepared to use the fixed line, or bring a couple quick-links
- there are still fixed lines on pitches 10-15. all fixed lines are in decent shape as of last inspection, but should be considered suspect.
bolted by: Eric Werfel, w/ much help
FA: Eric Werfel and Seth Williams
FFA: Drew Marshall and Jacob Jacob
a seriously committing, but fun adventure!!!
The 'Approach' (pitches 1-6)
1***-2**: 5.10+, 5.10+ (overhanging corner, technical, balanced, Sustained. welcome crack up top. Some loose rock)
3-4*: 5.9, 5.8 (chossy alpine arete to a stem box)
5-6: 5.8, 5.8 (series of pillars, easy traverse)
optional bivy ledge here: sleeping bags / pads stashed at back of ledge
The Headwall (7-15):
7: 5.4 (shared w/ Paguvi, chossy gully)
8**-9*: 5.11+/ 5.10A0, 5.9 (flaring off-width, corner chimney, small roof)
10**-11**: 5.10, 5.11 (corner, crack,traverse, sustained technical face)
12**-13**: 5.11+,5.11- (more technical face. Still sustained...)
14**: 5.11- / 5.10A0 (calcite traverse under roof)
15****: 5.12c/ 5.10A0 (the crux, and money pitch!!! perfect dihedral, with dimples on one side. Bolt-laddered through the crux)
nice ledge
Upper Pitches (16-27):
16*-17*: 5.10, 5.9 (flaring crack system to a stem-box)
18: 5.9+ (pleasant off-width, cool traverse, some gardening)
19***: 5.10 (beautiful corner to an airy traverse)
20*: 5.11+/5.10+A0 (blank slab/face to double-crack)
21*: 5.9 (ledge traverse, corner off-width)
22*-23*: 5.10, 5.9+ (ledge traverse, corner/gully, traverse, face. a little PG; could use cleaning)
24*-25: 5.9,5.8 (around arete, up corner, around another arete, up gully, ledge traverse... big drag at end if you link, but ur walking a ledge)
26**-27*: 5.10,5.7 (up clean face / cracks to corner, past the window, over the ridge, cross gully, finish up blocks)
Descent.. WALK OFF!!! from the northern summit, walk the knife-edge ridge to the southern summit, turn right, roughly following the ridgeline (but staying slightly below on the southern side) to a notch. one rappel into the col (use your rope and rappel straight over the edge; the manky fixed lines going climbers right are for access coming up). cross the col, and hike back up a gully to the ridgeline to join the Toro trail at the cross (cross is no longer there).
Linking:
most pitches are between 25-30m. all can be rappeled with 60m. most can be linked; 14,15, and 18 you probably want to pitch out. 7 too (or just solo it). 19 and above, use your judgement. they are all possible to link, but drag will be an issue. we (FA team) linked 20-21 and 24-25.
SAFETY NOTES!!
- this is not just a long 'sport' route, ie Timewave. it is a different beast, altogether. very alpine, adventure climbing. major commitment, big exposure, traverses, some choss, etc... this is more bolted alpine mountaineering than it is sport climbing.
- route is still new. until the route sees more traffic, there is still some loose rock. pitches 3 and 7 are particularly chossy, but on very easy rock. pitches 22-23 are also a little dirty, on 5.9-5.10 climbing, making them PG13.
- you can bail reasonably well through pitch 17. pitch 18 (`aka the 'Garden Traverse') would present problems rapelling, except it currently has two fixed lines, making bailing from above a temporary option; one has a core shot, the other is good as of last inspection, but should not be trusted without inspection. IN THEORY, the whole thing can be rappeled, but after 18, you SHOULD plan on finishing.
- above pitch 20 or so, not all stations are equipped with rappel rings. above this point, you really should finish, but if you need to rappel, be prepared to leave gear
- pitches 5 and 6 are currently difficult to rappel, due in part to the traverse, but more so the lack of rings on the 6 anchor (the rope pinches). there is currently a fixed rope. it is in good condition as of this writing. two quicklinks on the pitch 6 anchor should solve the problem (there are two clipped to the top of the first fixed line. the next person up could please leave them on pitch 6?). i forget if 5 has rappel rings. be prepared to use the fixed line, or bring a couple quick-links
- there are still fixed lines on pitches 10-15. all fixed lines are in decent shape as of last inspection, but should be considered suspect.
Photos
10 Comments