Type: Sport, Alpine, 754 ft, 8 pitches
FA: July 2017
Page Views: 223 total · 100/month
Shared By: Konstantin Stoletov on Mar 16, 2019
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route


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Description

“Roger’s lunch buffet” 5.10a/b; 230m; 8 pitches 

 Roger is a curious but friendly grizzly bear who lives in Ashlar ridge area and gave us a few thrilling moments during our days there. Bring the bear spray or end up in his buffet! 

Pitch 1. 5.10a; 30m; 11 bolts. “Jackie`s pitch”.  Start on a little ledge 5m right of the shallow left leaning crack that splits the face. Climb up to fourth bolt than do a daring step to your right (10a), continue on a good holds to the belay station on a good ledge.

Pitch 2. 5.9; 35m; 14 bolts. Start on an easy ground and than go on a good face full of juggy holds to another ledge belay.

 Pitch 3. 5.6; 30m; 9 bolts. Climb a short face than go past a few sandy ledges reaching a comfortable ledge belay under a cool looking arch/overhang.

 Pitch 4. 5.10a/b; 17m; 8 bolts. Layback the crack under overhang than step over to your right reaching delicate face holds (10a/b). Continue climbing past few easy blocks into a corner. Belay is on a good stance.

Pitch 5. 5.9; 35m; 11 bolts. Climb into a cool looking corner, using bunch of footholds in the corner and on the face. Sustained 5.9 moves here and there lead you to a belay on an awesome shady ledge (Dustin`s ledge). Enjoy the views and refuel before the headwall.

Pitch 6. 5.9; 30m; 10 bolts. Climb a few meters on an interesting “Canadian” limestone before traversing up and righ past a few gymnastic moves above the grassy ramp. Belay is on the good stance.

Pitch 7. 5.10a; 38m; 11 bolts. “Mical`s wet dreams” Look up and right. You came here to climb that un f**** believable looking ramp/dike that only goes at 10a! Climb up and left using the alpine draw on a 3rd bolt. Continue on an unreal ramp into the sky above you. Belay on a big ledge.
 Pitch 8. 5.3; 15m; 3 bolts. A little baby pitch that can be linked with a pitch 7. A beer can be cracked at its start already☺. Climb up and right on the  final slab. Belay on a big grassy ledge (bolts on the wall in front of you).

Descent: Walk down the ridge. Gear: 70m rope, 16 draws, helmets. Retreat can be done from any point with 70m rope.

 All the stations (except the Dustin`s ledge are 3 bolt to accommodate the party of 3.

Location

Follow a good trail from Ashlar parking lot. After reaching the final “hump” below the ridge traverse left under the wall to the scree. Follow a faint switchbacks 100m up till just above start of the route (see inset). Traverse the scree back to the wall/start.

Protection

bolts

Photos

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