Type: Sport, Alpine, 1040 ft, 11 pitches, Grade II
FA: June 2018
Page Views: 117 total · 53/month
Shared By: Konstantin Stoletov on Mar 16, 2019
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route


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Description

Start at a rocky ledge ~50m right of "Ay Mamasita!"

P1. Traverse up and right, continue on easy, blocky rock, past 10 bolts, 5.5, 35m. Belay on a small ledge, chains.

P2. Climb on a good rock, finishing at a small stance, 8 bolts, 5.9, 20m. Belay on a small stance, chains.

P3. Continue on a good easy rock, 12 bolts, 5.9, 34m. Belay on a large ledge, chains.

P4. Traverse right across the gully and follow the bolts up the right side of the Green Gully, than crossing the gully back left to a small stance, 7 bolts, 5.6, 30m. Belay on a small stance, chains.

P5. Continue on easy “Canadian” limestone, feel free to clean whatever you can if following☺. 8 bolts, 5.6, 20m. Belay on a good ledge under a large “wavy” overhang, chains.

P6. Look up and tighten your pants, fun is coming! Start climbing up and right over the cool rock waves passing the rap station, than enter the never-ending sequence of cool moves on incredibly good rock. Possibly the best pitch! 14 bolts, 5.11b, 38m. Belay on a small ledge, chains.

P7. Two variations exist. Either climb straight up and right or clip the first bolt, down-climb right and climb straight to the second bolt. Both ways go at 11c and involve intense crimping on a razor sharp holds. Continue on an easier ~11a ground to the good ledge under a big overhang (Helmet ledge). A wind blown rock came out of nowhere during the FA crushing Merrik`s helmet so don’t feel relaxed☺. 10 bolts, 5.11c, 20m. Belay on a ledge, chains.

 P8. Traverse up and right on somewhat suspicions but surprisingly good rock. Continue on a steep, solid face reaching the friction traverse. Traverse right and climb up the easy right facing flake to a good stance. 13 bolts, 5.11a, 30m. Belay on a ledge, chains.

 P9. Climb back left on a good positive holds and than do a few powerful layback moves on a sharp vertical rail. Climb onto a small, exposed ledge in the middle of the limestone ocean (Mexican ledge). Have a burrito! 13 bolts, 5.10d, 20m. Belay on a good ledge, chains.

P10. Almost there! Start on a crimpy face, past a hollow flake (use it at your own risk) reaching the good rest ledge. Continue on an easier ground trough the “bottleneck” exiting onto a good protected ledge. Keep right for better rock on this pitch. Last bolt may be hard to see right before the station in a great rock. Clip it and finish! 12 bolts, 5.11a, 30m. Belay on a good ledge, chains.

P11. Finish easy well bolted pitch of 5.4, be careful topping out on loose blocks. 8 bolts, 5.4, 30m. Belay at a little step, 2 bolts.

Descent. Hike down the ridge. Climb can be safely rapelled from any point with 70m rope but it is not recommended.  1-2 alpine draws are helpful on the pitches 4, 5 and 8. Gear: 70m rope, helmets, 14-16 draws.

Location

Drive 2 kilometres past the Ashlar ridge view point, Miette hot springs road. Park in a small (5 cars) parking lot on the left side of the road. Walk towards the creek 30m, turn left walk on a good trail down the creek, cross it (use the fixed rope if necessary). Hike up the steps hill to the base on a orange tape marked trail. Approach time is 40-60 minutes.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

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