PRINT: Rock Climb Redpoint Redemption, Southern Arizona

Redpoint Redemption

5.10d, Sport, 120 ft (36 m),

Avg: 2.8 from 11 votes
FA: Melissa Russo, Matt Martinez, Tahoe Schrader, Mike Russo 3/19
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Farmhouse > 5 - Whippersnapper Wall

Access Issue: Private land crossing and parking information - PLEASE READ BELOW ! Details

You walk across private land to enter this area. The landowner has been tolerant so long as we don't disturb his land or his cattle. To keep a good relationship with him it is extremely important that climbers don't mess with grazing cattle, and that ALL GATES STAY AS THEY ARE FOUND. Also, the large gate on the north side of the parking area MUST NOT BE BLOCKED IN ANY WAY; the rancher regularly uses this gate as he drives a truck pulling a large trailer, so the road leading to said gate MUST STAY CLEAR by least 40 feet on all sides, including the road perpendicular to it (running east-west). If the parking area is full, drive past the bridge and park on the next pullout (not far), and NEVER BY THE GATE.

Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.

Description

*TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE** Best done as one pitch (70M REQUIRED), this long line tackles everything from technical slab and juggy pods to slopey pockets. Beware the hidden hold after the first set of anchors that can quickly turn this route from 10d to 11d without warning. While this crux isn't physically difficult it can stop you in your tracks pretty quickly - as the first attempted first ascencionist learned much too late. He later had his redemption - unfortunately riding caboose on the send train. IF you decide to climb to the first set of anchors it goes at about 10a.

Location

This route is on the far right side of the Whippersnapper Wall, starting directly under the obvious roof.

Protection

17 quickdraws will get you to the permanent carabiners at the final anchors. 70m rope required to get to the ground. Belayer may need to climb up a couple feet if the climber is light. There are midpoint anchors but no rap rings yet.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Goes all the way to the top of the cliff.

Mike nearing chains on P1

Mel nearing the chains on her first FA

Crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ

5.11a

This one is just over 35 meters. I had to down climb from bolt two with our 70M. Lower-off station still needed at the lower anchors for those climbing with a shorter rope. Mar 31, 2019