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Redpoint Redemption
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 11
votes
Routes in 5 - Whippersnapper Wall
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Blood S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Canyon of the Crescent Moon S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Canyon of the Crescent Moon (Full Moon Extension) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cross of Coronado, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Curse of the Jackal S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Don't Call me Junior! S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Golden Fleece, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hang the DJ S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Iron Phoenix S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Knowledge was their Treasure S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Misery and Gin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Mutton Buster S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Ol’ Dusty Trail S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Raiders of the Lost Crack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Redpoint Redemption S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stags in Rut S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Temple of Doom S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Temple of the Sun S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 31.69331, -110.43068 |
| FA: | Melissa Russo, Matt Martinez, Tahoe Schrader, Mike Russo 3/19 |
| Page Views: | 1,095 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Matt martinez on Mar 6, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Private land crossing and parking information - PLEASE READ BELOW !
Details
You walk across private land to enter this area. The landowner has been tolerant so long as we don't disturb his land or his cattle. To keep a good relationship with him it is extremely important that climbers don't mess with grazing cattle, and that ALL GATES STAY AS THEY ARE FOUND. Also, the large gate on the north side of the parking area MUST NOT BE BLOCKED IN ANY WAY; the rancher regularly uses this gate as he drives a truck pulling a large trailer, so the road leading to said gate MUST STAY CLEAR by least 40 feet on all sides, including the road perpendicular to it (running east-west). If the parking area is full, drive past the bridge and park on the next pullout (not far), and NEVER BY THE GATE.
Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.
Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.
Description
- *TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE** Best done as one pitch (70M REQUIRED), this long line tackles everything from technical slab and juggy pods to slopey pockets. Beware the hidden hold after the first set of anchors that can quickly turn this route from 10d to 11d without warning. While this crux isn't physically difficult it can stop you in your tracks pretty quickly - as the first attempted first ascencionist learned much too late. He later had his redemption - unfortunately riding caboose on the send train. IF you decide to climb to the first set of anchors it goes at about 10a.
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