Type: Trad, 600 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 134 total · 29/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on Mar 2, 2019
Admins: Gunkswest

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Entrance fee required; you are also supposed to register with the Tourist Police if climbing Details

Description

This is a pretty big, south-facing route on Jebel Suweibit Gharbia. This formation is about a 45 minute 4WD trip south of Wadi Rum village toward Um Adaami. In February, the bottom pitches come into the sun about 11am. It's possible to escape off the route after the 5th pitch, rather than going to the summit.

P1: Climb up and left on easy ledges to gain a prominent, right-trending ramp. Go up and right on the ramp to a belay spot at the base of the obvious, varnished corner system (5.4, 50m).
P2: Climb the corner to a belay niche that has room for two people (5.8+, 30m).
P3: Traverse right to a corner/flake and climb past an overhang to a stance. Face climb up and right to another corner (5.8+ PG, 30m).
P4: Climb the corner past more ceilings to a ledge. Move left and climb a wonderful corner to a terrace with lots of loose blocks (5.9, 30m).
P5: Scramble up and left a short distance around some huge boulders to the base of the upper wall.

NOTE: From these large boulders (which provide some shade), you can hike up and right about 50 feet to a small saddle. From here, you should see two large boulders down in the base of a drainage and beyond that, a bunch of cairns on ledge systems. This is the descent route. If you want to erscape now, from the small saddle go down about 150 feet to the two large boulders in the drainage. Under one of them is some tat that can be used to rappel or downclimb about 25 feet to a ledge (do not follow the upper cairns across the ledge, as those are for the descent from the true summit of the formation). Once you reach the ledge down below the large boulders, follow the cairns down (with at least one more 20m rappel) to the base of the formation.

P6: Climb up and slightly left on the upper face, aiming for an obvious, left leaning crack (5.7, 50m).
P7: Climb up along the obvious, left-leaning crack (5.7, 50m).
P8: Face climb up to a ledge then follow a crack to a terrace (5.9)
P9: Continue up to the summit (5.6, 50m).

Location

This route is located about 3km from the Saudi Arabian border. The climb is remote and hence gives a classic Wadi Rum experience.

You'll definitely need a Bedouin guide to drive you to the route.

Protection

Carry lots of slings and gear to a purple Camalot.

Photos

0 Comments