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Fresh Loaf

5.10+, Sport, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 1.5 from 4 votes
FA: EFR,Joe Silver,Christian Rodenbeck,'19
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Dry Canyon > 4 - Superfly Sector

Description

The first moves are hard if you are not warmed up. Once you clip the second bolt big horizontal holds and the usual Dry funk lead to a large bread loaf like chunk of chert. From here to the anchors it is game on. A good hold for clipping the anchors is to the right in a horizontal. Some cool moves above the loaf are worth the short adventure that a newly developed route brings. In a year I would probably give it another star. Until then bring a brush and be part of the solution. Haha.

A better way to do this route is link it into the top of Broken Biscuit by continuing past the anchors to the second to last bolt on Biscuit. It is a bit of a run but just as you want another bolt you reach jugs at the flake. You would be hard pressed to fall off if you got this far.

Location

Left of broken Biscuit with a much easier start.

Protection

7 bolts and steel carabiners for last one up.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lauren Fallsoffrocks
A beach with climbing
 
[Hide Comment] I've never broken as much rock off any single established climb as this one. Feb 27, 2021
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] Lauren- do you climb newly bolted routes very often? They rarely arrive shiny and perfect. Final cleaning is a community effort with routes becoming less dirty over time, especially on western limestone - AKA Choss. Feb 28, 2021
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Hey Lauren, sorry so much junk came off. Spent a few hours cleaning this one up so the crap you took off was what was left. Never fun when holds are falling off. sounds like it will be a bit better for the next party. Edit: just read the description after posting this and it looks like it warns about the crap. Hope it didn't ruin your day. Feb 28, 2021
Lauren Fallsoffrocks
A beach with climbing
 
[Hide Comment] Luke- yeah I actually do climb new stuff pretty often. I’ve cleaned and bolted around 15 routes or so. I’m not super super familiar with the Dry, just spent a few days there. At the time, I didn’t know it was new and had no idea what to expect.
Eric- thanks for bolting man! This one just needs more folks willing to go up with some aggressive brushes and light deadblow hammers. Nov 24, 2022