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Radical Sabbatical

5.7+, Trad, 420 ft (127 m), 4 pitches,  Avg: 2.8 from 51 votes
FA: FA: Mischa Tourin, Kristen Fiore, Levi Leab
Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Bolton Area > Bolton Dome > 03. Railroad Yard
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Description

Another great adventure to make your way from bottom to top of the Dome. Slightly harder than it’s sister route Work Shoes with completely different character offering a significant amount of thoughtful gear placement and route finding. Enjoy! 

P.1 Sport. Locate the line of glue-in bolts at the very bottom of the Railroad Yard. Climb the slab and trend right after the last bolt to a ring-bolt anchor at the base of a crack on the Railroad Ledge. (This pitch is often linked with P.2) 5.7+ ~60ft

P.2 Mixed. Follow the wide/varied crack up to a small horizontal. A bolt appears where you want it to make a long reach out left to a large hold. Continue to easier ground where a small corner to the left leads up to ring-bolt anchors. 5.7+ ~60ft

P.3 Mixed. Step right from the belay. Locate several small gear placements then follow the bolt line when the gear peters out. Head for the big pine, sling it, and then walk left to a short mantle (with a bolt to guide you) to a ring-bolt anchor in the shady spot behind the tree above. 5.6 ~120ft

P.4 Mixed. Climb up to the block above to traverse out onto a short vertical section protected by two bolts. Top out that section and do a full 60m traverse along the sidewalk until you reach a ring-bolt anchor at the end. WARNING! – Make sure you have impeccable non-verbal communications as there is no chance you'll hear each other over the highway noise. Alternatively, you can also build a belay above the steep section and split this pitch in two. 5.7 ~180

Descent options (in order of my personal preference):

1) Bring your approach shoes and walk off down the summit trail (obvious trail off the back of the dome)

2) Scramble to the summit proper and rap off a slung tree to link up with the Work Shoes decent route. 

3) Double rope rappel from P.4 anchor with 60s will bring you directly to the p.2 or Lichenology and then to the ground.

P.4 Variation - Trad. From the start of the 4th pitch get on top of the large block following the first two bolts of the pitch. From there, head up a bit further till an obvious weakness in the head wall appears. Take that back left and up, following cracks as you go. Pull onto the slab and you are at the top anchors of Work Shoes. Keep in mind this is a gear protected crux finish. 5.8 ~30ft of independent climbing. FA Tim Farr, Evan Kirk, August 2020

Location

Starts at the glue-in line of bolts at the bottom of the Railroad Yard. 

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Excellent nonverbal communication on P4
[Hide Photo] Excellent nonverbal communication on P4
An alternate finish to the last pitch. Hand traverse that crack till you can get your feet up and head straight up to the anchors of Work Shoes.
[Hide Photo] An alternate finish to the last pitch. Hand traverse that crack till you can get your feet up and head straight up to the anchors of Work Shoes.
Start of P4 before the loooong walk
[Hide Photo] Start of P4 before the loooong walk
The direct finish.
[Hide Photo] The direct finish.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This adventure deserves a comment. Half of the adventure is just getting to the ledge where these three climbs start. Most probably won’t climb two thumbs down to get here so yeah, follow the fixed line up then traverse the ledge across to a short rappel down to the railroad ledge, small precarious ledge makes for fun setting up, we tethered ourselves to some trees. The climbing is pretty spot on for The grade, really fun moves and protects pretty well with small cams. Crux is protected by the lone bolt. Clip the old piton if you want or run it out 20’ on easy terrain to the anchor. There is room for a small piece don’t worry. This anchor sits at an amazing secluded and comfortable ledge with beautiful views of the valley, highly recommend this climb for just before sunset and a perfect way to end the day. You can rap all the way down to the base of the crime scene wall in a single rappel with a 70m rope with a few feet to spare. Because of the gear, best suited for a 5.9 climber or seasoned 5.7 leader
Also note, this would be a great candidate for a second or even third pitch in the future and the future of the dome is bright. Climb on May 16, 2019
[Hide Comment] This route is rad! The gear is thoughtful but the moves are easy. Thanks to the two thumbs down anchor that is ~10 feet from the base of the route it is an excellent lead solo if practice the dark art. May 26, 2019
[Hide Comment] The new longer multipich version is great! As a note, Tim Farr and myself did a sorta "direct finish" that goes on gear and about 5.8. It's only about 30' of independent climbing, but it's fun and worth while.

From the start of the 4th pitch get on top of the large block following the first two bolts of the pitch. From there, head up a bit further till an obvious weakness in the head wall appears. Take that back left and up, following cracks as you go. Pull onto the slab and you are at the top anchors of Work Shoes. Keep in mind this is a gear protected crux finish. Aug 7, 2020
Mischa Tourin
Underhill, VT
[Hide Comment] The description of this route has been updated to reflect the addition of pitch 1,3, and 4. (The prior climb with the same name was originally just pitch 2). Aug 10, 2020
Mischa Tourin
Underhill, VT
[Hide Comment] I did some upgrades to Pitch 1 on 4/12/21:

1) Added a bolt in between what was the first and second bolt to more adequately protect the climber from the ledge below.
2) Put an anchor at the bottom of pitch 2. Whether you are linking pitch 1 and 2 or pitching it out, it's now preferable to go to the right of the pine tree after clipping the last bolt and head to the new anchor. Apr 13, 2021
[Hide Comment] Rapped to the Lichenology anchor with a single 70m. I had about 5m to spare. When going over the edge there is potential for a big pendulum. You can place a directional quick draw, in the anchor at the lip, for the second to clean above the lichenology anchor to help you maintain your line. It is still difficult to not swing right though. At the anchor, tie your ropes off and help guide your second in. Sep 8, 2021
Luke Schaefer
Burlington, VT
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] With the direct finish this might be the best moderate multi-pitch in bolton. Variety of moves and cool position. Jun 1, 2023