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Winner Winner Chicken Wing Dinner
5.9+,
Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
FA: FRA: Derek & Giselle Field (2019)
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (14) First Cree…
> Slot Club Wall
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Pitch 1 (5.9+, 100'): Thunderbolt 5" offwidth into a smooth chimney and then a gully with loose stones. Make a belay in doughy blocks before entering the cave.
Move the belay 30' into the cave. The next pitch exits the right side of the cave. The left exit has insecure rock quality and is not recommended.
Pitch 2 (5.8, 70'): Indiana Jones up the right side of the cave past a bulging block. Squeeze through a very tight hole to a stance before making a wild exit traverse. At the lip, a thin crack out right provides a directional placement to keep the rope out of the main crack. Walk 20' to a belay in a thin diagonal crack.
Descent: Walk off left and circle back down a gully to the base of the wall. There is a short 4th-class step in the gully.
Location
Far left side of the Slot Club Wall. Lightning-bolt offwidth on the face to the right of the striking chimney The Bathypelagic Zone.
Protection
Double set of cams to 1.5" + two 5" cams + one 6" cam
[Hide Photo] Hamming it up on the outrageous second pitch. Photo by Giselle Field.
[Hide Photo] Giselle Field squeezes through the last squeeze of the route. Note the directional cam which is crucial to keeping the rope out of the roof crack underneath.
[Hide Photo] Vertical panorama of the first part of the route. Offwidth fiends get after it.