Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
FA: | Mike Long, Rand Black, Dec 1982 |
Page Views: | 722 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Rb Black on Feb 18, 2019 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Access:
Details
The only access issue for this area is the seasonal closure of routes on the north side of Tom's Thumb.
Please be aware of, and abide by the closure when it is in effect!
For more information, please visit scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve
Please be aware of, and abide by the closure when it is in effect!
For more information, please visit scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve
Description
Start at the right side of the north face of the dome below beautiful looking crack with pitons?
Climb up stiff 5.9+ face climbing up the coarse grained granite (no pro) and right to the start of the fingertip-lyback crack (piton?) at the contact of the fine grained aplite. Work through the rattily finger/barndoor 5.11- crux to a med. to large cam belay at the ledge above.
Note: this route was put up before the advent of TCU's, which is why pitons were fixed on the FA.
If you aren't climbing real solid, you can set up a top rope after climbing "Smooth Sailing" to the left.
Historical factoid: The beachball-sized rock at the base of the climb used to be pasted at the contact/base of crack above, and on a subsequent ascent, a #2-1/2 friend was placed behind that block. I fell on the friend, which popped the flake off and I grounded out landing on my feet -- just as the block came crashing down inches from crushing both my feet. -- RB
Climb up stiff 5.9+ face climbing up the coarse grained granite (no pro) and right to the start of the fingertip-lyback crack (piton?) at the contact of the fine grained aplite. Work through the rattily finger/barndoor 5.11- crux to a med. to large cam belay at the ledge above.
Note: this route was put up before the advent of TCU's, which is why pitons were fixed on the FA.
If you aren't climbing real solid, you can set up a top rope after climbing "Smooth Sailing" to the left.
Historical factoid: The beachball-sized rock at the base of the climb used to be pasted at the contact/base of crack above, and on a subsequent ascent, a #2-1/2 friend was placed behind that block. I fell on the friend, which popped the flake off and I grounded out landing on my feet -- just as the block came crashing down inches from crushing both my feet. -- RB
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