Type: Trad, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Mike Long, Rand Black, Dec 1982
Page Views: 722 total · 11/month
Shared By: Rb Black on Feb 18, 2019
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Start at the right side of the north face of the dome below beautiful looking crack with pitons?

Climb up stiff 5.9+ face climbing up the coarse grained granite (no pro) and right to the start of the fingertip-lyback crack (piton?) at the contact of the fine grained aplite.  Work through the rattily finger/barndoor 5.11- crux to a med. to large cam belay at the ledge above.

Note: this route was put up before the advent of TCU's, which is why pitons were fixed on the FA.
If you aren't climbing real solid, you can set up a top rope after climbing "Smooth Sailing" to the left.
 
Historical factoid:  The beachball-sized rock at the base of the climb used to be pasted at the contact/base of crack above, and on a subsequent ascent, a #2-1/2 friend was placed behind that block.  I fell on the friend, which popped the flake off and I grounded out landing on my feet -- just as the block came crashing down inches from crushing both my feet. -- RB

Location Suggest change

Look for the aplite crack with fixed pitons(?) about 15' above a beachball sized boulder at base.
This is the far most right route on the north side.

Protection Suggest change

Original FA fixed two 3/4" angle pitons in crack, which may still be present. Use small cams/units and/or nuts to protect the crack (and backup the pitons if present) as the stiff 15' face below has no bolted protection.

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