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Middle Maid or Spire
5.5,
Trad, 65 ft (20 m),
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
FA: Bill Forrest, late 1960's
Arizona
> Central Arizona
> *Phoenix Areas
> Superstition Mo…
> Siphon Draw
> Three Old Maids
Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS!
Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
Description
There are several ways to the summit of this broad Maid. The easiest route is class 3+ or a probable 5.11 finger crack or a variety of other crack options. Your choice. We opted for a nicely protected 5.5 crack on the west side of the formation since we rappelled down to this saddle from the Western Maid. We also climbed a 5.6+ crack on the north face.
Location
Fairly easy to locate, it sits right in the middle of the formation and is the fattest Maid of the three.
Protection
Two bolts on the summit. Small rack to #4 is more than enough.
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