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West Arete
5.8 Mod. Snow,
Trad, Snow, Alpine, 2800 ft (848 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV,
Avg: 3.3 from 8
votes
FA: Richard Emerson and Walter Gove (Aug. 29 1969)
Washington
> Northwest Region
> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
> N Cascades
> Eldorado Peak
> Main Peak
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
This long, narrow, steep finger of rock rises from above treeline to the snowy summit of El Dorado. A mix of 4th, easy 5th and technical rock, the route finding is challenging and the rock quality variable, all the makings of a true adventure climb.
Most parties will approach via El Dorado Creek and El Dorado Glacier. The route is meandering due to rock quality but the goal is to stay on the ridge. The primary technical challenge is two gendarmes, one of which is bypassed by a vertical, highly exposed slab traverse. After the technical climbing is completed, the final 3rd class to the summit is long and often travels through very loose rock.
There is a significant amount of 4th class and low 5th class climbing on questionable rock and working around it will take a lot of time. Most parties will bivy on route or be prepared for a very long day.
Protection
Full trad rack, ice axe and crampons for glacier travel.
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