Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, Snow, Alpine, 2800 ft (848 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV|
|Page Views:||1,651 total · 66/month|
|Shared By:||Matthew Lee on Feb 12, 2019|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
Most parties will approach via El Dorado Creek and El Dorado Glacier. The route is meandering due to rock quality but the goal is to stay on the ridge. The primary technical challenge is two gendarmes, one of which is bypassed by a vertical, highly exposed slab traverse. After the technical climbing is completed, the final 3rd class to the summit is long and often travels through very loose rock.
There is a significant amount of 4th class and low 5th class climbing on questionable rock and working around it will take a lot of time. Most parties will bivy on route or be prepared for a very long day.