Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 2800 ft (848 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,651 total · 66/month
Shared By: Matthew Lee on Feb 12, 2019
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details


This long, narrow, steep finger of rock rises from above treeline to the snowy summit of El Dorado.  A mix of 4th, easy 5th and technical rock, the route finding is challenging and the rock quality variable,  all the makings of a true adventure climb.

Most parties will approach via El Dorado Creek and El Dorado Glacier.  The route is meandering due to rock quality but the goal is to stay on the ridge. The primary technical challenge is two gendarmes, one of which is bypassed by a vertical, highly exposed slab traverse.  After the technical climbing is completed, the final 3rd class to the summit is long and often travels through very loose rock.

There is a significant amount of 4th class and low 5th class climbing on questionable rock and working around it will take a lot of time. Most parties will bivy on route or be prepared for a very long day.


Full trad rack, ice axe and crampons for glacier travel.