Type: Trad, TR, 200 ft
FA: ML and JL, 10/2007
Page Views: 294 total · 121/month
Shared By: Frodeman on Feb 7, 2019 with improvements by jleining
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the obvious splitter finger and hand crack on the northwest side of the formation.

Find the medium-sized pine tree growing out of the side of the dome. This line follows that crack and continues past the small aspen (with slings) halfway up the dome. A third tree, a small pine, is farther up. If you find the pine tree at the base, you can't miss this climb.

It is mostly hand and finger-sized on very coarse rock with plenty of supplemental feet on the outside. The few feet of climbing before the first pine tree are superb. Sadly, the quality steadily deteriorates as you climb higher. If the initial quality continued to the top, this would be the best splitter in Colorado.

Directly above this climb, above and to the left of a third tree (a small pine), is a single newish Metolius hanger and bolt. It appears to be in good condition. It can be backed up with red or yellow Camalots. This is not my bolt, and I do not know the age of it.

This is approximately a 60m pitch. It can be toproped (via topdown belay) by scrambling to the top of the dome then down a moderate slab to the single bolt.

Descent: 2 raps with a 60m via the small aspen.

Location

This is on the northeast face, facing the trail.

Protection

Mostly hand and finger size and doubles in Camalots to red with many finger-sized stoppers.

Photos

nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
Looks awesome! Feb 7, 2019
jleining   CO
I placed the bolt back in 2007 after climbing the next crack to the right which goes at 5.7 and we named "Ten Tons of Dope." We then lead this climb which we called "The Straight and Narrow." I thought it felt in the 5.11- range as this is definitely harder and steeper than Charley Don't Surf over on Acid Rock. Feb 14, 2019