The Straight and Narrow
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, TR, 200 ft (61 m) |
FA: | ML and JL, 10/2007 |
Page Views: | 988 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Frodeman on Feb 7, 2019 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is the obvious splitter finger and hand crack on the northwest side of the formation.
Find the medium-sized pine tree growing out of the side of the dome. This line follows that crack and continues past the small aspen (with slings) halfway up the dome. A third tree, a small pine, is farther up. If you find the pine tree at the base, you can't miss this climb.
It is mostly hand and finger-sized on very coarse rock with plenty of supplemental feet on the outside. The few feet of climbing before the first pine tree are superb. Sadly, the quality steadily deteriorates as you climb higher. If the initial quality continued to the top, this would be the best splitter in Colorado.
Directly above this climb, above and to the left of a third tree (a small pine), is a single newish Metolius hanger and bolt. It appears to be in good condition. It can be backed up with red or yellow Camalots. This is not my bolt, and I do not know the age of it.
This is approximately a 60m pitch. It can be toproped (via topdown belay) by scrambling to the top of the dome then down a moderate slab to the single bolt.
Descent: 2 raps with a 60m via the small aspen.
Find the medium-sized pine tree growing out of the side of the dome. This line follows that crack and continues past the small aspen (with slings) halfway up the dome. A third tree, a small pine, is farther up. If you find the pine tree at the base, you can't miss this climb.
It is mostly hand and finger-sized on very coarse rock with plenty of supplemental feet on the outside. The few feet of climbing before the first pine tree are superb. Sadly, the quality steadily deteriorates as you climb higher. If the initial quality continued to the top, this would be the best splitter in Colorado.
Directly above this climb, above and to the left of a third tree (a small pine), is a single newish Metolius hanger and bolt. It appears to be in good condition. It can be backed up with red or yellow Camalots. This is not my bolt, and I do not know the age of it.
This is approximately a 60m pitch. It can be toproped (via topdown belay) by scrambling to the top of the dome then down a moderate slab to the single bolt.
Descent: 2 raps with a 60m via the small aspen.
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