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Vaya con Pollos

5.11a PG13, Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 5 pitches,  Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
California > Lake Tahoe > Carson Pass Hig… > Calaveras Domes > Calaveras Dome > 2. Central Dome
Access Issue: COVID-19 closure Details

Description

Those looking for a little more adventure and difficulty after climbing the first two pitches of Wall of the Worlds should consider Vaya Con Pollos.  While the climbing is just a bit harder down low, the upper pitches seem a little less runout and committing than Wall of the Worlds.

Pitch 1-2. Climib the first two pitches of Wall of the Worlds ending just above the traverse which goes left under the roof.

Pitch 3. (5.9) Start up the 5.8 crack above the roof until it splits directions. Go left heading toward some bushes in the crack system above. Climb past the enticing 5.6 splitter hand crack which splits off and shoots up trending to the right. Instead, continue following the flake system leading up and left. Belay at a small ledge below the left facing dihedral above. Gear belay.

Pitch 4.  (5.11a) Start up the left facing lieback dihedral which gets progressively thinner the higher you go. Some polished face climbing along the way adds to the flavor of this tasty sustained corner. It gets thin and you'll want gear that suits the occasion. Its finger licking good. Build an anchor at the large ledge above the corner.

Pitch 5. (5.10) Move the belay about 40 feet up the ramp/ledge to just under the obvious vertical dike of pitch 5. Hike your way up this diminishing dike which goes through an enticing knob field. Follow the dike and don't get sucked too far out into the sea of knobs. It gets dicey out there. Two bolt anchor on a small ledge.

Pitch 6. (5.10b) Work your way through a wandering knob field lassoing horns along the way. A wild and exposed pitch. Build an anchor in a shallow corner where you can. 

Pitch 7. Follow the easy ramp which goes up trending to the right. The pitch is easier than it looks but lacks much pro. Follow the ramp until you reach a two bolt anchor. Rappel down Wall of the Worlds with two 60m ropes.  It is possible to top out from here but you're looking at a long walk around the dome. One can descend the dome on both the right and left sides. 

  

Location

Starts after the second pitch of Wall of the Worlds. 

Protection

Cams .3" to 3". Nuts 1 set. Micro offsets useful.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pitch 5 dike. Committing first move, the rest is easier. 
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Picture by Fraser Query
[Hide Photo] Pitch 5 dike. Committing first move, the rest is easier. Picture by Fraser Query