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Heart of the Sunrise
5.12b,
Sport, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
FA: Chris Hatzai
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (v) Monument Area
> (4) Big Ben Tower
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details:
smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Start out climbing in the obvious crack system. Clip the first 2 bolts from the crack and work right onto the face. Climb through the boulderly 5.11 sections working up and left. After a good rest at bolt 5, work back into the crack system climbing on good holds up to another great rest just below the mini roof. Once into the roof sequence the route stays on you until you pull the lip 15’ above the roof. Do a couple more slab moves until you clip the chains. (Using the large hand crack to the left of the crux sequence knocks the grade down significantly.)
Location
Located at the base of the Big Ben tower starting out in a large crack system.
Protection
12 bolts. Fixed steel anchors.