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Heart of the Sunrise

5.12b, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: Chris Hatzai
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (v) Monument Area > (4) Big Ben Tower
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Start out climbing in the obvious crack system. Clip the first 2 bolts from the crack and work right onto the face. Climb through the boulderly 5.11 sections working up and left. After a good rest at bolt 5, work back into the crack system climbing on good holds up to another great rest just below the mini roof. Once into the roof sequence the route stays on you until you pull the lip 15’ above the roof. Do a couple more slab moves until you clip the chains. (Using the large hand crack to the left of the crux sequence knocks the grade down significantly.)

Location

Located at the base of the Big Ben tower starting out in a large crack system. 

Protection

12 bolts. Fixed steel anchors.

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Heart of the sunrise (start)
[Hide Photo] Heart of the sunrise (start)
Heart of the Sunrise (start)
[Hide Photo] Heart of the Sunrise (start)
Heart of the Sunrise, first pitch
[Hide Photo] Heart of the Sunrise, first pitch