PRINT: Rock Climb Wallace's Memorial Route, Northwest Region

Wallace's Memorial Route

5.10+, Sport, 45 ft (14 m),

Avg: 3 from 6 votes
FA: Z. Noles '18, M. Denny '19 FFA (onsight)
Washington > Northwest Region > San Juan, Fidal… > Mt Erie > (h) Pigeon Stoo… > Pigeon Stool Gr… > End of the Rope Crag

Description

Start all the way to the right on the lower wall near a small fir tree. A couple bouldery moves lead you up past 3 bolts and onto the first ledge, clip the next bolt that's in the middle of the lip in the roof. Pull the roof and work the slab to the second roof. Clip the bolt in the lip of the second roof, pull the roof and follow the slab up to the top anchors.

Location

right side of the lower wall in front of a skinny pine tree.

Protection

5 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

(yellow) Wallace's Memorial Route, stays right and pulls over the two upper roofs. (teal) Shake and Bake climbs the face and goes over the bulge at the top.

Fifth bolt (the one above the second roof) as of 6/27/2020 missing the nut and hanger. Bolt is loose in rock.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

meghan92
bellingham wa

5.10d

Wonderful climbing! Found the movement to be quite thoughtful and enjoyable. As an out of shape sport climber I super appreciated the no hands rests throughout the climb. A must do at Erie! Jun 27, 2019

Salém J
Washington

Good boulder moves and easy rests make this do'able for us boulderers. whew. Jan 1, 2020

Ian C

The fifth bolt (right above the second roof) dropped the hanger while we were on route on 6/27. The bolt is also loose in the rock. You can bail on the 5.8 to the left for the last two bolts, But as bolted, the route is pretty sketch sans last bolt. A fall would drop you onto the ledge below the first roof. We marked the route with a chalk X in the meantime. Jun 30, 2020

z attack
Wa

5.10+

Ian, Thanks for letting me know. I'll get out there and put in a new bolt and update when it's fixed. Jun 30, 2020