Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches
FA: Ermanno Salveterra, 3/1994
Page Views: 943 total · 27/month
Shared By: Matt Z on Jan 21, 2019
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

This route on Aguja Media Luna is great for a one-hitter weather window. Pretty short by Patagonia standards and the quick and easy approach from Niponino and relatively straightforward pitches make for a reasonably sized route. Excellent views of both the Torres and Fitz Roy range from the top. The upper headwall pitches would be classics at most any crag in the world, and the first couple aren’t half bad either.

p1: R-facing corner just to the right of the toe of the buttress. Wide crack system in reddish rock. Minor grunting required. 5+, 35ish meters

p2: Less wide, more jugs, keep going up the corner system. 35m, 5

p3: Straight up another widish corner system, 35m, 5

p4: First crux. Can either go up the corner to the left (supposedly a smidge easier?) or the crack to the right. We went right. Some less than inspiring rock quality on this pitch but it’s not that bad. 6b, 45m

p5: Up moderate terrain to the ridge crest. 20m 3

p5.5: Move the belay to the base of the headwall. Could be one pitch, but rope drag and loose rock is a concern. 4th class, 20m

p6: Yes, you get to climb those. Those gorgeous, splitter, dreamy cracks above. Pick your line and ride it until you get to a small ledge at about 60m. Whoop and giggle your way skyward. 5, 60m-ish

p7: Clear eyes and steady heart! Continue up the crack system, belay near the bottom of the gaping chimney. Pro-tip, try not to use the #4 in the anchor. 40m-ish, 6a

p8: Clamber into the chimney, dance around the chockstone and gaze upwards at the coolest pitch you’ll see for a while. Rolo describes it as “elegant” and who am I to improve on Rolo’s description. Figure out your gear, hope you didn’t leave the #4 in the anchor, and quest upwards. Belay from a small alcove behind the pillar at about 35m. 6c

p9: Another hand crack leads upwards into the heavens. Dead-end at the roof, figure out how to get around it and scramble to the cumbre! 30m, 5

Descent: Rap route goes pretty much fall-line from the last pitch. Couple raps down the headwall, then keep rapping straight down the corner to the glacier. Bring a knife and extra cord to cut out and replace anchors as necessary.

The curious and visionary will surmount the summit and immediately entertain the notion of continuing along the ridge to the SE Ridge of Cerro Torre. Rolo's book gives some further beta for this elegant and logical link-up.

Location

Approach: Up to Noruegos bivy from Niponino, somewhere around 1.5 hours at a casual pace. From Noruegos, walk about 10 minutes across the slabs and mellow glacier to the base of Aguja Media Luna. Crampons and axe probably not needed unless there’s a metric shitton of snow. Route starts in an obvious red dihedral with a wide crack in the corner.

Protection

Double run of cams from BD #.3-3 plus a #4, stoppers, extra cordage

Photos