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Goldline (aka GoldMine / aka Yukon Gold)

WI4, Trad, Ice, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.7 from 24 votes
FA: Kurt Winkler, Charles Smith Feb. 2006; Alden Pellet & Seth Maciegowski 2007; Paul Cormier, Mike Pelchat in 2009
New Hampshire > NH Ice & Mixed > - Northern NH > N Bald Cap ICE > 3. Yukon Gold butress

Description

yellow ice drips down a deep chimney  parasols and can be a soaker

History (aka "About the name") - As related below this climb has an interesting history of "Who Done It First". COMMENTs and a personal message from Kurt Winkler indicates he and Charles Smith seem to have been the first, in 2006. Kurt, no stranger to FA's throughout the White Mtns, requested that the name of the climb be changed to "Goldline", both in recognition of the color of the ice and in "honor" of his very first climbing rope, a Goldline rope, and I have made that the "primary" name, while also retaining the two other names parties have given the climb. (So that a search will come up with any of the 3 names.) 

For those too young to have experienced Goldline ropes, they were made in the USA (primaily for boating applications, I believe) and were considerably less expensive that the "Perlon / Kernmantel" ropes imported from Europe by very few importers. (REI and Peter Limmer & Sons being two I knew of). They did have some interesting properties: Being a "laid" rope ( 3 strands, twisted into "one") they had a habit of wanting to untwist when rappelling off an overhang, and they had a stretch-factor that far exceeded any of today's UIAA requirements for climbing ropes. (However, this latter factor made them desirable for ice climbing, since the ice gear of the day was, shall we say, less than ideal in holding power; so the stretch would (in theory) dissipate the falling energy over a greater time period thus lessening the force on the ice-"piton/screw/what-have-you"! )  R Hall 8/4/20 NH Admin.

Chimney to corner

Paul Cormier took a hike up to North Bald Cap during one winter looking for new ice climbs in the early 2000s.  His backcountry pursuits in his home town of Berlin, NH are unlimited.   He started guiding after ten years of weekending in the White Mountains and traveling in Montana and the northwest.   This explains this unbridled urge to seek out new cliffs every backcountry climber learns after their first epic in the woods of the Whites.  He found an amazing Yellow Flow and named it Yukon Gold at the top of the climb with Mike Pelchat.  
Mike long time friend and climber mountaineer  nodded in approval  thus was North Bald Cap  and its future is in stone and ice.
Paul would like to mention that at the top of Yukon Gold a yellow rappel sling was found mank and of no use for the rap.  Who cloaked the climb previous to him decades ago is unknown….

Protection

Double ropes and ice screws. Rappel rings at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kurt Winkler on P1. 27 February, 2006
[Hide Photo] Kurt Winkler on P1. 27 February, 2006
Top half of Yukon Gold
[Hide Photo] Top half of Yukon Gold
Climbing Goldmine/Yukon Gold back in December '07
[Hide Photo] Climbing Goldmine/Yukon Gold back in December '07
Paul Cormier on pitch one:     weather 4F, clear, overcast
[Hide Photo] Paul Cormier on pitch one: weather 4F, clear, overcast
golden candy at the top of p1
[Hide Photo] golden candy at the top of p1
Rapping down the chimney on Yukon Gold
[Hide Photo] Rapping down the chimney on Yukon Gold

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Alden Pellett and I did this route back in 07 and found no evidence of an FA. We were calling it Goldmine at the time and I think Paul got to it in 09 or so. Could be wrong, but it’s a great line whatever the history... Mar 17, 2019
[Hide Comment] Kurt Winkler and I did this route on 27 February, 2006 and found no evidence of an FA. The temperature barely broke 10F that day. It's a striking line in a great location. Jul 12, 2020