Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: JF, RR, '81
Page Views: 148 total · 13/month
Shared By: Andy Bennett on Jan 19, 2019
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Wreel (W.r.e.e.l.=Weighty Roosters Expect Extreme Limitations)...a climb with a strange acronym but great climbing on mostly good rock. You'll find enjoyable face climbing and an interesting crux capped off by a long, moderate groove system reminiscent of those in the Dragoons. Back in the day, the main face was apparently gained by climbing a tree to the first bolt and stepping onto the face. Well, that tree is long gone, leaving 20'+ of impossible, overhung smooth face. Instead, either stick clip the first and only bolt, or clip it on rappel (single line rap from good tree at top of chimney just below Great Expectations/Desire platform). Brass nuts and technomicrowidgets are key for protecting the middle of this climb.

Location

Spot the obvious bolt ~ 25' left of the start of Great Expectations

Protection

Doubles 0.3-#3 Camalot, singles gray-red C3 or similar, brass nuts, stoppers, ballnuts?

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