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Tension Crack
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
FA: | D. Brayshaw, A. Palmer January 2019 |
Page Views: | 611 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Dru B. on Jan 15, 2019 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
Climb a ramp to below a bolt and mantle onto a ledge. Climb a thin crack off the ledge with a couple of finger pods and good foot edges to a bulge. Laybacking and blind gear placements lead over the bulge to a good rest and easier low-angle climbing up a hand crack to the top.
The crack is not a nice splitter to start; it's a seam that is mostly knifeblade wide with a variety of wider pods. Halfway up, it widens to fingers then thin hands. Gear can be tricky to place at the bottom. The first ascent used a #1 stopper, #1 Peenut, mid-sized RP, orange TCU and #1 camalot, but other things might work too.
The tiny nuts are both placed above a ledge and there is ledge-fall potential if they pull as you climb by them. Because the climb is so close to Beaver Buzz and it's easy to TR from that route's anchor, it didn't seem right to use more bolts for pro here near the thin seam as anyone uncertain about the gear can easily check out the climb on TR instead.
The crack is not a nice splitter to start; it's a seam that is mostly knifeblade wide with a variety of wider pods. Halfway up, it widens to fingers then thin hands. Gear can be tricky to place at the bottom. The first ascent used a #1 stopper, #1 Peenut, mid-sized RP, orange TCU and #1 camalot, but other things might work too.
The tiny nuts are both placed above a ledge and there is ledge-fall potential if they pull as you climb by them. Because the climb is so close to Beaver Buzz and it's easy to TR from that route's anchor, it didn't seem right to use more bolts for pro here near the thin seam as anyone uncertain about the gear can easily check out the climb on TR instead.
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