Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: D. Brayshaw, A. Palmer January 2019
Page Views: 182 total · 20/month
Shared By: Dru B. on Jan 15, 2019
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

Climb a ramp to below a bolt and mantle onto a ledge. Climb a thin crack off the ledge with a couple of finger pods and good foot edges to a bulge. Laybacking and blind gear placements lead over the bulge to a good rest and easier low-angle climbing up a hand crack to the top.

The crack is not a nice splitter to start; it's a seam that is mostly knifeblade wide with a variety of wider pods. Halfway up, it widens to fingers then thin hands. Gear can be tricky to place at the bottom. The first ascent used a #1 stopper, #1 Peenut, mid-sized RP, orange TCU and #1 camalot, but other things might work too.

The tiny nuts are both placed above a ledge and there is ledge-fall potential if they pull as you climb by them. Because the climb is so close to Beaver Buzz and it's easy to TR from that route's anchor, it didn't seem right to use more bolts for pro here near the thin seam as anyone uncertain about the gear can easily check out the climb on TR instead.

Location

Just left of Beaver Buzz and climbs to the same anchor, on the small buttress on the right halfway up the Mechanical Advantage approach trail. .

Protection

One bolt and #1 stopper, #1 Peenut, mid-sized RP, orange or yellow TCU and #1 camalot. Rap rings on top.

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