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> E Wall Trail
Tension Crack
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Avg: 2.3 from 6
votes
Routes in East Wall Trail
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Babolious T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beautiful Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beaver Buzz T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bin Leadin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Birthday Gorilla T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Blue Pill T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cooks Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dead Hazel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dinosaur Killer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dropout S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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First Degree, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fresh Outta Purples T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Goin’ to Shabooms T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Matrix, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mechanical Advantage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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On Call T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pygmy's Dismay T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Red Dutch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red Pill T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shark Tooth Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Skinny Fingers T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Smoked Salmon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Swipe Right T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tension Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Vulture Club S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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White Rabbit S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wildcat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | D. Brayshaw, A. Palmer January 2019 |
| Page Views: | 611 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Dru B. on Jan 15, 2019 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Your Star Rating:
Description
Climb a ramp to below a bolt and mantle onto a ledge. Climb a thin crack off the ledge with a couple of finger pods and good foot edges to a bulge. Laybacking and blind gear placements lead over the bulge to a good rest and easier low-angle climbing up a hand crack to the top.
The crack is not a nice splitter to start; it's a seam that is mostly knifeblade wide with a variety of wider pods. Halfway up, it widens to fingers then thin hands. Gear can be tricky to place at the bottom. The first ascent used a #1 stopper, #1 Peenut, mid-sized RP, orange TCU and #1 camalot, but other things might work too.
The tiny nuts are both placed above a ledge and there is ledge-fall potential if they pull as you climb by them. Because the climb is so close to Beaver Buzz and it's easy to TR from that route's anchor, it didn't seem right to use more bolts for pro here near the thin seam as anyone uncertain about the gear can easily check out the climb on TR instead.
The crack is not a nice splitter to start; it's a seam that is mostly knifeblade wide with a variety of wider pods. Halfway up, it widens to fingers then thin hands. Gear can be tricky to place at the bottom. The first ascent used a #1 stopper, #1 Peenut, mid-sized RP, orange TCU and #1 camalot, but other things might work too.
The tiny nuts are both placed above a ledge and there is ledge-fall potential if they pull as you climb by them. Because the climb is so close to Beaver Buzz and it's easy to TR from that route's anchor, it didn't seem right to use more bolts for pro here near the thin seam as anyone uncertain about the gear can easily check out the climb on TR instead.
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