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Apex Predator

WI4, Trad, Ice, 160 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
FA: Aaron Courain, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Alan Wechsler, 2019 Jan 5
New York > Adirondacks > Adirondack Ice… > E: Interior Hig… > Panther Gorge

Description

This is arguably one of the most aesthetic looking climbs of the lower cliffs near Grand Central Slide.

Start at the lower curtain (about 25 feet tall) if it’s touching down or find one of the weaknesses to the left to access the ramp. Climb to the terrace below the pillars and belay or climb in a single pitch (we broke it into two smaller pitches during the FA). The grade varies between WI4-5 depending on how it builds.

Location

This south/southeast aspect cliff is the obvious climb 50 feet right of Spiritus Draconis. The lower pitch is prone to baking due to its aspect and the dark brown underlying stone.

Protection

Standard rack of screws with some stubbies, maybe some small rock gear if you have to get creative with the start.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Aaron Courain starts P2 during the FA.
[Hide Photo] Aaron Courain starts P2 during the FA.
Kevin MacKenzie and Alan Wechsler below the pillars. Agharta is in the background, but most of it is hidden.
[Hide Photo] Kevin MacKenzie and Alan Wechsler below the pillars. Agharta is in the background, but most of it is hidden.
Apex Predator profile taken on January 14, 2017 from a route in the north end of Panther Gorge.
[Hide Photo] Apex Predator profile taken on January 14, 2017 from a route in the north end of Panther Gorge.
View up the building pillars from the belay ledge. The right-hand pillar was destroyed by warm weather and heavy rains, but touches down in fat conditions.
[Hide Photo] View up the building pillars from the belay ledge. The right-hand pillar was destroyed by warm weather and heavy rains, but touches down in fat conditions.
Ice and rock of the lower cliffs of Panther Gorge. Photo taken by Kevin in 2018 during the FA of Spiritus Draconis.
[Hide Photo] Ice and rock of the lower cliffs of Panther Gorge. Photo taken by Kevin in 2018 during the FA of Spiritus Draconis.