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When the Cat's Away, the Mice Will Play

5.12a, Sport, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 9 votes
FA: Ken Beane 1989
Washington > Northwest Region > San Juan, Fidal… > Mt Erie > (g) Main Wall > (d) The Headwall

Description

Really fun slightly over-hanging climbing on crimps and side pulls.

Somehow get to the 3 bolt anchor (the p2 anchors on Touching the Sky), then make some easy moves right and up to gain a small ledge. Once you're standing on the ledge, the business begins. Sidepulls and crimps get you past two bolts to a positive hold and the 3rd bolt. Do a short traverse left on small crimps, then straight up on more sidepulls and increasingly positive holds to some random bolts on a ledge. The closest rap anchor is farther left.

I feel like the style dictates how hard this pitch is. On TR it feels like .11d/.12a, and clipping bolts would probably feel about the same. However, because the gear options do not line up with good clipping holds, a gear lead would be much more demanding, and would be significantly more proud and difficult.

Location

This line goes up from the P2 anchors on "Touching the Sky." You can get there via Ray Auld or Touching the Sky. You can also get there from the top of the cliff and rappel in, by hiking down from the summit area, past moss wall, and following trails. The top area is a big, flat, grassy area with some bolted anchors (but no rap rings).

Protection

Four quality bolts protect the climb nicely, with fixed steel draws at the anchor. Or, be bold and lead it on small offset nuts and gear (nothing bigger than a blue (.3) c4 plus a .75 and #2 camalot and some runners, or TR it by extending an anchor over the lip of the headwall to avoid rope drag.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

It protects surprisingly well on gear. Still PG13
[Hide Photo] It protects surprisingly well on gear. Still PG13
The large flat grassy area if accessing the headwall from above. There is one more 2 bolt anchor down and skier's right in this picture (no chains or rap rings though!)
[Hide Photo] The large flat grassy area if accessing the headwall from above. There is one more 2 bolt anchor down and skier's right in this picture (no chains or rap rings though!)
Looking up from the 3 bolt anchor (the top of P2 on Touching the Sky)
[Hide Photo] Looking up from the 3 bolt anchor (the top of P2 on Touching the Sky)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

CourtneyB
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Fun climb that will give your fingers a good workout. It's short but packs a punch. Gorgeous views and great exposure. I pulled off quite a bit of loose rock in the first half.
If you're throwing a rope down from the top, best to loudly call "rope" and give a potential climber below you time to respond as you can't see the climbers. Sep 26, 2021
Tyler Hill
Burlington
 
[Hide Comment] I noticed today that a hold broke down low. You can still use the hold but it is much smaller and makes the initial moves off the ledge a bit more physical. Not sure it changes the grade though.. Mar 15, 2023