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Anonymous Flake Direct

5.10c/d, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 12 votes
FA: unknown
Virginia > Shenandoah & NW… > Elizabeth Furnace > Buzzard Rocks

Description

This route fires straight up the middle of the slab and the flake above. There are 2 bolts high on the route, the first 8 ft below the flake and the second 8 ft above the flake. Stay out of the broken vertical crack to the left that leads to the lone bolt on the A Flake Left. The moves below the flake are easy slab climbing with occasional shallow cracks suitable for tricams, nuts, or small cams. The moves above the flake are where the business is, thin technical moves take you from just below the second bolt to 5 ft above to a nice slopey rail that ends the crux and yields a short path to the anchors above.

Location

Center of the A Flake

Protection

2 bolts, tricams, nuts, and a #1 or 0.75 BD for the flake. A BD 0.0 can be placed in the first 7 feet, and bring a shoulder-length sling to clove hitch a small flake 12 feet from the ground. Bolted ring anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

60 meters of rope completely extended from the ground to the anchors and back again on A Flake Direct
[Hide Photo] 60 meters of rope completely extended from the ground to the anchors and back again on A Flake Direct

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andres Espejo
[Hide Comment] Beware. The guide in Rakkup shows this as a sport route but it is as sport as any other trad in the same face. To climb over the flake you really need to trust your placements. Once you are there, clipping of the second bolt is not easy. Nov 23, 2020
Rob Jarvis
[Hide Comment] What is the beta on this one? I found some small crimps and right hand side pulls but couldn't put it together without using a flake to the left Jun 26, 2022