Type: Sport, 800 ft, 8 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 275 total · 32/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Jan 3, 2019
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description

"The Killer Cricket" is the classic line on the east face. Described as 7 pitches in the guidebook, we found the 7th anchor a bit short of the top with one more bolt and some easy 5th class climbing above. The start is marked by a rubber chicken hanging in a tree at the base (note: the guidebook shows the route line incorrectly - it starts on the next apron to the right of where its drawn). The 5.11 crux is short lived and could easily be aided through. Most of the climbing checks in around 5.8 and 5.9 on amazing incut jugs with a few short 5.10 cruxes. A good route for those looking to break into the grade. All pitches are ~30M, and the line can probably be rappelled with one rope from the top of P7, though the potential for rope snags on cactus and chickenheads seems high. The best option is to leave nothing at the base and descend the via ferrata after summitting.

P1) a 5.10-ish move off the ground leads to easier climbing.
P2) a 5.10-ish move off the anchor leads to an insecure runout on easier climbing, then to the corner and through the bushes above.
P3) a steep 5.10 section through the cool double roof to an awkward anchor stance.
P4) up the corner, then slightly right and straight up. Very hard to see the bolts above, but the climbing is positive and they'll show up when needed. 5.8
P5) 5.11 through the big roof, then glory jugs to the anchor. Some old aid bolts off to the left.
P6) Left, then back right around the cactus farm. The route becomes exceptionally covered in hawk & owl poop at this point. Cruiser, maybe 5.8.
P7) Cuts right through the tiered roof system, and some scrunchy climbing through the overhang above.
P8) one bolt above the anchor leads to some 4th class scrambling. No anchor on top - I sat in the bushes and hip-belayed. Walk over to climbers left to find the via ferrata to descend.

Protection

10+ draws/slings for bolts and bolted anchors.

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