Type: Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, Grade V
FA: December 2018, Kevin DeWeese , Poston
Page Views: 1,341 total · 48/month
Shared By: Kevin DeWeese on Jan 2, 2019
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron Details
Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

V 5.7 A3-
70m rope required.
Nailing and Cams.
Wet in early spring
Should not be climbed in winter if large snowpack exists on rim (Danger of avalanche over most of the route - see photo

  • Pitch 1: (A2) 160’ -  C1 to 5th class traverse to A2 beaks
  • Pitch 2: (A2+) 140’ - A2+ beaks to slab nailing
  • Pitch 3: (A2+) 110’ -  Penji/tension left to hooking a flake into Wide overhanging flared crack to thin nailing to nailing and rivet traverse out of roof
  • Pitch 4: (A2) 150’ -  Nailing and rivets to beaks then mungey wide cracks to anchor
  • Pitch 5: (A2) 225’ -  C1 to headwall then C1 and nailing to free traverse around a pinnacle to beak corner to nailing hooks and wide cams to ledge
  • Pitch 6: (A3) 100’ -  Free to C2 to hooking to thin beak tips, belay on face left of crack system
  • Pitch 7: (A1)  205’ -  Nailing and free to rightward C1 to thin C1 to free, traverse left to anchor
  • Pitch 8: (5.7) 110’ -  Free fist crack up and right then traverse to rappel tree on summit.


Rap route to descend. All rap anchors setup with stainless rap rings.
When pulling rope over pitch 6 and 5, pull rope to the left.
From P4, go straight down to dedicated rap anchor on the lip of roof,
70m rap to p1 anchor from there.

Location

10' right of Jericho Wall Start

Protection

2018 Rack

  • 70m ropes 
  • 3 each 0.3”-6” 
  • 2 each 7”-12” 
  • 1 set offset nuts 
  • 5 each beaks #1-3
  • 1 each arrow #1-3 
  • 1 each angles #1-3 
  • 5 rivet hangers 
  • 1 each hooks (grappling and cliffhanger)

Photos