All Locations >
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley S Side
> Glacier Point A…
> Jericho Wall
Epidemia de Opiáceos
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British A3-
Type: | Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, Grade V |
FA: | December 2018, Kevin DeWeese , Poston |
Page Views: | 1,341 total · 48/month |
Shared By: | Kevin DeWeese on Jan 2, 2019 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
According to Yosemite's website in 2016, Glacier Point Apron is open to climbing, but the Park Service does not recommend climbing there due to recent and ongoing rockfall.
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ for the latest information on visiting Yosemite.
Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
V 5.7 A3-
70m rope required.
Nailing and Cams.
Wet in early spring
Should not be climbed in winter if large snowpack exists on rim (Danger of avalanche over most of the route - see photo)
Rap route to descend. All rap anchors setup with stainless rap rings.
When pulling rope over pitch 6 and 5, pull rope to the left.
From P4, go straight down to dedicated rap anchor on the lip of roof,
70m rap to p1 anchor from there.
70m rope required.
Nailing and Cams.
Wet in early spring
Should not be climbed in winter if large snowpack exists on rim (Danger of avalanche over most of the route - see photo)
- Pitch 1: (A2) 160’ - C1 to 5th class traverse to A2 beaks
- Pitch 2: (A2+) 140’ - A2+ beaks to slab nailing
- Pitch 3: (A2+) 110’ - Penji/tension left to hooking a flake into Wide overhanging flared crack to thin nailing to nailing and rivet traverse out of roof
- Pitch 4: (A2) 150’ - Nailing and rivets to beaks then mungey wide cracks to anchor
- Pitch 5: (A2) 225’ - C1 to headwall then C1 and nailing to free traverse around a pinnacle to beak corner to nailing hooks and wide cams to ledge
- Pitch 6: (A3) 100’ - Free to C2 to hooking to thin beak tips, belay on face left of crack system
- Pitch 7: (A1) 205’ - Nailing and free to rightward C1 to thin C1 to free, traverse left to anchor
- Pitch 8: (5.7) 110’ - Free fist crack up and right then traverse to rappel tree on summit.
Rap route to descend. All rap anchors setup with stainless rap rings.
When pulling rope over pitch 6 and 5, pull rope to the left.
From P4, go straight down to dedicated rap anchor on the lip of roof,
70m rap to p1 anchor from there.
1 Comment