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Routes in Upper Shaman Wall
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Bacon, Egg & Easy S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Briar Patch T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Daddy Day Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Free Ranged S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Grass Fed T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Similax Crack T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Watch Your Nutellas S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.95658, -82.79115 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,014 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Caldwell on Dec 31, 2018 |
| Admins: | Tom Caldwell, Steve Lineberry |
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Access Issue: Neighborhood Parking
Details
Please be mindful of the neighbors on Big Rock Lake Road. Do not park along the road, generate excessive noise in the parking lot or at the cliff, or camp out. If the parking is full, use the spot at the intersection of Preston McDaniel and Nine Times Roads. This is a neighborhood, drive slow and be courteous. Violating one of these rules is an easy way to get the cliff shutdown for everyone.
Description
A odd but popular route. Worth the venture to Upper Shaman.
Climb the funky flakes at the start past two bolts. Above the second bolt you can get a #3 camalot. Move to the right side of the headwall at a really good hold on the arete to clip the bolt. Clip the bolt and make the reachy move left to get into the eyebrows. One more bolt gets you over this bulge. Easy slab leads to a final bulge. Gear can be had below the bulge, then a bolt in the bulge to anchors.
An alternative finish can be done after the second bolt. Move up and left out of the flake that arches left. Finish the same.
The anchors were extended by the CCC to make pulling the rope easier.
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