Type: Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches
FA: Derek & Giselle Field (2018)
Page Views: 493 total · 16/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Dec 27, 2018
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Please take care on the approach not to stray into the resort. Details

Description

Pitch 1 (5.10, 110 feet): Start next to a small juniper at a weakness in the first slab bulge. Follow bolts up the lumpy slab, trending left into the main system, moving delicately past choss into the chimney. (This section has five bolts to supplement small cam placements.) Grunt up the puzzling chimney into better rock through an offwidth pod (crux) to a pumpy finish on steep flared hands. Phew. Belay from the two-bolt anchor on the ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.10, 80 feet): Jam and stem the steep burly crack to the top of the pillar. Climb the slab past two bolts to a two-bolt anchor on the edge of the broad summit platform.

Location

Obvious right-facing corner on the northwest side of the spire. Look for bolts leading up into the corner system.

Protection

Standard Sedona rack to 4" + optional 6" cam for extra confidence at the crux
One 70m or two 60m ropes

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