Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Likely Doc B and Company
Page Views: 187 total · 23/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Dec 20, 2018
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Description

An interesting climb that is sketchy in several spots.

This climb is just before the main wall, down and climbers left of the Walker Buttress. There is a right facing flake (Cruizer alt.) and a left facing flake that are easy to locate. The alternative start looks like it stays wet for a while.

You can start in the flake or on the face. We chose the face. Go straight up the face past some good gear and clip the only bolt on P1. Continue moving up until you see the large thin flake to the left. Above this flake is a large horizontal break and your first gear above the bolt. Look out right for a short slanting crack that goes at 11 o'clock. Pull the slanting crack and aim up and left still for another break in the rock. This is the last gear before the anchor. Pull above the break and reach the large ledge with the two bolt anchor.

P2 moves straight up the anchor to a bolt. Above the bolt you can get a 0.3 camalot or similar in an eyebrow. Make a long run to the next bolt at a smooth slab. Make some fun friction moves up and trend slightly right near a small juniper. Move straight above the juniper on the steep face and big holds. When you get to the top, you will see two large pine trees. The second pine tree has a sling that was good as of Dec. 2018. A bolted anchor will likely be added due to park rules in the near future. Descend straight down the route the way you came up.

Location

Look for the right facing flake then the left facing flake just 20' to the left before you hit the Main Wall. Both variations have a single bolt that is easily seen from the ground.

Protection

A couple of bolts, thin cams to a #2 camalot, optional #4 for P2 near the juniper tree. Two ropes required to get down.

Photos

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