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Psychotropic Flautist

5.12-, Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches,  Avg: 3.9 from 28 votes
FA: Zach Harrison, Trevor Bowman, Blake McCord 11/16/18
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > W Sedona > Dry Creek Rd Area > Fay Canyon > Fay Buttress

Don't Ruin These Routes!

RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB THESE ROUTES during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

Description

A high-caliber route up a pillar of milk chocolate patina on the northern aspect of the cirque, between the black wall in the back and 2 Legit 2 Quit on the prow. Three harder pitches of varied, engaging face climbing on generally excellent Coconino patina plates and crimps are sandwiched by two easier, yet enjoyable pitches. The wall is sneaky steep, and gets some good air under your feet.

North facing, so a good shade option during the warm months; it gets shade mid morning (9ish) in late spring/early summer and earlier in the fall.

P1--Clamber up edges on the top 10' feet of transition Schnebly into the sweet, sweet Coconino. Follow an arete on positive features until it ends, step over a dirt gully, and pull around a loaf (#.75 Camalot--only gear on pitch) to anchors on the end of a lengthy, brushy ledge. (5.9, 60')

P2--Walk left from anchor through brush about 50' to the bolt-line. The crux of this pitch and the route is the whacky boulder problem start (can even include a dyno if so inclined). Continue up a corner, zig left up a sweet, podded fingercrack, zag right to another corner/crack with a tricky finale, and launch up awesome patina crimping that spits you onto the arete just below the deluxe belay perch. You can leave the doubles of #.5-#1 behind, only a single rack needed. A premier pitch! (5.12-, 120')

P3--Skywalk right on generous rails to the end of the ledge and pull jugs on the exposed arete past the "Tetris" block matrix onto the clean, steep panel of chocolate rock. Weave around on mostly great jugs up the bolt line. There is one spot about 2/3 of the way up where a  #.4 Camalot in a horizontal can ease the distance between bolts; otherwise it's all bolts on the pitch. A strange step-up up high, and the final traverse right to the anchor stance are the hardest bits. (5.11-, 120')

P4--Work up to a higher shelf, zigzag up crimps between stances, pull left into a defined scoop, and diagonal back right through the crux ride up a rad rail. After the rollover out of the steep and onto the slab, wander up a short fingercrack (#.3 Camalot or red C3--only gear on pitch) and cut left up ears and runnels to another belay stance. Fortunately, even the easier climbing features great rock. (5.11, 110')

P5--Slab jugs to groove with patina crimps out right, mantle right of pesky agave, hero jugs to left-leaning crack, crux traverse right after crack/flake ends to final crack. Belay directly below summit ridge. Flop over top and enjoy the stellar views! There is some lesser quality stone on this pitch, but it's still generally good. This is what you brought the rack for. (5.9, 90')

Rap the route with a single 70m, taking care with several of the long pitches. The rap back to the anchor atop P2 is long (knots!) and requires the first person to swing into the ledge and walk it back to the anchors. The rap back to the brush ledge atop P1 is long also--go straight down the arete.

Location

On the north face of the cirque. Between Dune Buggyin' and 2 Legit. Look for bolts off of the climber trail. 

Protection

17 draws/slings
(1X) Red C3-.4 Camalot
(2X) .5-#1 Camalot
(1X) 70m rope

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Summit scenery scope.
[Hide Photo] Summit scenery scope.
Zach demonstrates "alternate" beta on the crux boulder start of pitch 2.
[Hide Photo] Zach demonstrates "alternate" beta on the crux boulder start of pitch 2.
Coming up the arete portion of P2. Mega good pitch!
[Hide Photo] Coming up the arete portion of P2. Mega good pitch!
A sea of patina jugs on P3.
[Hide Photo] A sea of patina jugs on P3.
Exiting the primo belay ledge and heading over the Tetris blocks at the start of P3.
[Hide Photo] Exiting the primo belay ledge and heading over the Tetris blocks at the start of P3.
The sweet fingercrack section of P2.
[Hide Photo] The sweet fingercrack section of P2.
The route, with belays marked.
[Hide Photo] The route, with belays marked.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Zach Harrison
Flagstaff
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] If you thought Oski was fun, climb this thing! Hats off to Trevor for the eye of this sweet line. Dec 20, 2018
[Hide Comment] Looks great! Jan 1, 2019
Eric D
Gnarnia
[Hide Comment] Red Rocks locals are going to start road-tripping to Sedona if you, Blake, and Zach keep this up. Jan 2, 2019
Big Ears
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] Followed this yesterday. P2 is one of the best sandstone pitches ive ever done. I weigh about 200 lbs plus what ever i was carrying, and everything was pretty damn solid. Absolutely classic, with a beautiful top out. A few more ascents should clean the upper pitches up nicely, but for the most part its pretty damn bullet. Jan 29, 2019
Ethan Dacted
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] The crux at the start of p2 isn't harder than v2 for tall folks but the pitch packs multiple punches that earn the 12- grade. This climb will be a NAZ classic once it cleans up. The crux on p4 is also height-dependent and the pitch didn't seem harder than 11b. I placed 3 pieces total on the first 4 pitches (.3 &.4 on p2, .3 on p4) and 3(.3,.5,.75) pieces on p5. We dragged a rack up the route to protect the mediocre final pitch that, as mentioned, is on lower quality rock. The route is well-bolted, but I wouldn't be upset if a few bolts were added (2-3 on p.5, 1 on p2) and you could leave the rack at home; however, I respect the decision of the FA party. Great find and thanks! Jan 30, 2019
AMT
[Hide Comment] This route is great. Beautiful setting, cool climbing. Be on the lookout for gear on the fifth pitch above the agave. If you miss it, it’s a bit of a run. Worth doing the last pitch for the summit views. Thanks to Trevor, Zach, and Blake for all the development work. Apr 2, 2019
[Hide Comment] Great route! Maybe not a good one to try to beat the heat with an early start on truly hot days. Climbed May 15th and it didn't got into the shade fully until 11am (dune buggyin wasn't in the shade till after 12). It was 85° in Sedona and it was comfortable, even slightly chilly with the wind, while on the route but the hike in was a different story. May 15, 2019
Chris Kalman
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Really good. Not too hard for 5.12a, if you're looking to break into the grade. The other pitches, while easier, are also all really good (minus P1 which is just an access pitch). Nov 14, 2019
Taka K
Telluride
 
[Hide Comment] The crux pitch is really something special, kudos to the FA team! Would recommend singles from .2-.75. Didn’t notice any gear on P3/4, but wasn’t looking because it didn’t feel too runout without it. We had 6 draws and 10 runners, which is perfect if you backclean a bolt or two on P2 and plan on linking P4/5. Linking the last two pitches makes the last one more exciting and worthwhile, even though the summit views are already worth it! Nov 30, 2020