Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches,
Avg: 3.9 from 28
FA: Zach Harrison, Trevor Bowman, Blake McCord 11/16/18
> Northern Arizona
> Sedona Area
> W Sedona
> Dry Creek Rd Area
> Fay Canyon
> Fay Buttress
Don't Ruin These Routes!
RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB THESE ROUTES during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
A high-caliber route up a pillar of milk chocolate patina on the northern aspect of the cirque, between the black wall in the back and 2 Legit 2 Quit on the prow. Three harder pitches of varied, engaging face climbing on generally excellent Coconino patina plates and crimps are sandwiched by two easier, yet enjoyable pitches. The wall is sneaky steep, and gets some good air under your feet.
North facing, so a good shade option during the warm months; it gets shade mid morning (9ish) in late spring/early summer and earlier in the fall.
P1--Clamber up edges on the top 10' feet of transition Schnebly into the sweet, sweet Coconino. Follow an arete on positive features until it ends, step over a dirt gully, and pull around a loaf (#.75 Camalot--only gear on pitch) to anchors on the end of a lengthy, brushy ledge. (5.9, 60')
P2--Walk left from anchor through brush about 50' to the bolt-line. The crux of this pitch and the route is the whacky boulder problem start (can even include a dyno if so inclined). Continue up a corner, zig left up a sweet, podded fingercrack, zag right to another corner/crack with a tricky finale, and launch up awesome patina crimping that spits you onto the arete just below the deluxe belay perch. You can leave the doubles of #.5-#1 behind, only a single rack needed. A premier pitch! (5.12-, 120')
P3--Skywalk right on generous rails to the end of the ledge and pull jugs on the exposed arete past the "Tetris" block matrix onto the clean, steep panel of chocolate rock. Weave around on mostly great jugs up the bolt line. There is one spot about 2/3 of the way up where a #.4 Camalot in a horizontal can ease the distance between bolts; otherwise it's all bolts on the pitch. A strange step-up up high, and the final traverse right to the anchor stance are the hardest bits. (5.11-, 120')
P4--Work up to a higher shelf, zigzag up crimps between stances, pull left into a defined scoop, and diagonal back right through the crux ride up a rad rail. After the rollover out of the steep and onto the slab, wander up a short fingercrack (#.3 Camalot or red C3--only gear on pitch) and cut left up ears and runnels to another belay stance. Fortunately, even the easier climbing features great rock. (5.11, 110')
P5--Slab jugs to groove with patina crimps out right, mantle right of pesky agave, hero jugs to left-leaning crack, crux traverse right after crack/flake ends to final crack. Belay directly below summit ridge. Flop over top and enjoy the stellar views! There is some lesser quality stone on this pitch, but it's still generally good. This is what you brought the rack for. (5.9, 90')
Rap the route with a single 70m, taking care with several of the long pitches. The rap back to the anchor atop P2 is long (knots!) and requires the first person to swing into the ledge and walk it back to the anchors. The rap back to the brush ledge atop P1 is long also--go straight down the arete.
On the north face of the cirque. Between Dune Buggyin' and 2 Legit. Look for bolts off of the climber trail.
(1X) Red C3-.4 Camalot
(2X) .5-#1 Camalot
(1X) 70m rope
Summit scenery scope.
Zach demonstrates "alternate" beta on the crux boulder start of pitch 2.
Coming up the arete portion of P2. Mega good pitch!
A sea of patina jugs on P3.
Exiting the primo belay ledge and heading over the Tetris blocks at the start of P3.
The sweet fingercrack section of P2.
The route, with belays marked.