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Garganta Seca and Garganta Profunda
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Três Pontões
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Garganta Seca and Garganta Profunda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Inferno na Torre T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Naoki Arima, Felipe Sertã, Robson Silveira and Gillan Schirmer, 2015 |
| Page Views: | 404 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Penedo on Dec 14, 2018 |
| Admins: | Tony Yeary, Roberta Zouain, Matt Looby |
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Description
These are actually two routes established by local climbers, one in top of the other to the main summit of Três Pontões.
The first route (bottom part - first two pitches) follows a beautiful vertical crack system.
The second (upper three pitches) is a technical face climb on crystals to the summit.
To reach the base of this route you have to climb the first three pitches of Inferno na Torre.
The route starts at a wide crack in front of the 4th pitch of Inferno na Torre.
1P - Into a wide crack with a stuck block, then face climb to bolted anchors. 5.11a, 30m.
2P - Beautiful finger to hands crack to an horizontal crack. Bolted anchors. 5.11, 30m.
3P - From here pro is only bolts. Small pitch with delicate faceclimbing on small crystals to bolted anchors. 5.10b/c, 8m.
4P - Technical faceclimb on crystals zigzag following the bolts. 5.10b/c, 25m.
5P - Faceclimb up on crystals to a slab and then to the summit. 5.10b/c, 30m.
Descent - 2 rappels with two 60m ropes take you to the base. Then descent the lower part of Inferno na Torre.
Route topo:
Garganta Seca - http://www.ace-es.org.br/scripts/croqui.asp?via=392
Garganta Profunda - http://www.ace-es.org.br/scripts/croqui.asp?via=393
The first route (bottom part - first two pitches) follows a beautiful vertical crack system.
The second (upper three pitches) is a technical face climb on crystals to the summit.
To reach the base of this route you have to climb the first three pitches of Inferno na Torre.
The route starts at a wide crack in front of the 4th pitch of Inferno na Torre.
1P - Into a wide crack with a stuck block, then face climb to bolted anchors. 5.11a, 30m.
2P - Beautiful finger to hands crack to an horizontal crack. Bolted anchors. 5.11, 30m.
3P - From here pro is only bolts. Small pitch with delicate faceclimbing on small crystals to bolted anchors. 5.10b/c, 8m.
4P - Technical faceclimb on crystals zigzag following the bolts. 5.10b/c, 25m.
5P - Faceclimb up on crystals to a slab and then to the summit. 5.10b/c, 30m.
Descent - 2 rappels with two 60m ropes take you to the base. Then descent the lower part of Inferno na Torre.
Route topo:
Garganta Seca - http://www.ace-es.org.br/scripts/croqui.asp?via=392
Garganta Profunda - http://www.ace-es.org.br/scripts/croqui.asp?via=393
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