Type: Trad, Aid, 500 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Caio Amador, José Marcio Dorigueto and Naoki Arima, 2014
Page Views: 121 total · 8/month
Shared By: Eric Penedo on Dec 12, 2018
Admins: Tony Yeary, Matt Looby

You & This Route


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Description

This route follows a line in the right great dihedral to a big roof at the central north face.
The first three trad pitches are classc, following the big dihedral to the base of the big roof.
Then traverse right (aid) under the big roof, and face climb up on holds and discontinued cracks to the summit.

1st pitch - Scramble up a gully to the fisrt bolt at the base of the big dihedral, then up the dihedral to bolted anchors at the top of a block. 5.7, 30m.

2nd pitch - Continue up the big dihedral. Crux at the vertical start to an small offwidth section. Bolter anchors. 5.10b/c, 25m.

3rd pitch - Continue up the big dihedral into a chimney to the first bolt. Mantle a stuck block to a small ledge. The crux is in the end, overhanging hand and fist jams. Overhang and uncomfortable belay station. 5.10d, 25m.

IMPORTANT: From here descent by rapel gets complicated. After the traverse (4th pitch) you need to pendulum the overhang to reach the 1st belay station. Need to abandon sling or cord, no rings at the 4th belay station.

4th pitch - Free climb and aid traverse down the roof with bolts and trad gear. Overhang and uncomfortable belay station. 5.10b/c A1, 15m.

5th pitch - Aid a small dihedral on trad gear, traverse right and climb up free the most exposed (read aerial, not dangerous) part of the climb to a ledge with bolted anchors after the overhang. You can aid the crux using a cliffhanger. 5.11a A1, 20m.

6th pitch - Follow a crack until it ends and then left to the face with two bolts betweed the vegetation. Find another short crack and then another bolt. Belay from a tree. 5.10 b/c, 40m.

Descent - Rapel with two 60m ropes (read note above) or hike down the southwest slab of the mountain. The trail is not well marked and can be hard to find.

Location

From the park area take the main trail. Pass all crags and go down after Totem (3rd floor) crag always close to the base until you reach another crag (Excluidos).
After the crag go up a vegetated gully between rocks and trees to the base of the main rock face. Go up left between the main rock and a huge block through and eroded gully. At the top take a left down to the base of the climb.

Protection

2 sets of cams from #.4 to #4, one #5 and one #6. 4 quickdraws for bolts.

Photos

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