Dark Nature

A classic mixed line where the amount of ice will dictate how it climbs, but when the second pitch is mostly ice this is a high quality and relatively low commitment climb.

P1 - Climb some easy ice into a chimney with a chockstone. Exit left via some fun but awkward 5.9ish moves to a snow ledge. Pull a bulge and walk up a low angle snow slope towards the ice at the base of P2. Around 40M, pass a two bolt anchor on a cliff off right in the middle of snow slope which is the second rap anchor on the descent. Can use this as an interim anchor and move the belay, or keep going and build a screw anchor at the base of P2. M5, 40M (or 60M+ to P2 base).

P2 - Climb a vertical vein of ice with good stems off rock using a mix of rock and ice pro. P2 ends in alcove at the top of the ice vein at a two bolt anchor. A wild, unique pitch. 40M, WI5+, up to M6 

P3 (Dark Matter M6+) - Traverse right from the belay at the top of Dark Nature, clip a couple of fixed pins and follow a rail until reaching the overhanging corner. Continue up the corner until reaching a ledge on the right side. From the ledge continue up and slightly left over easier ground to reach a tree with tat. From the tree a 60m douple rope rappel reaches the base of P2.

Dark Nature is located in a high chasm above the slope across Lake Louise from Louise Falls. Follow the tourist/sled trail down the right (north) side of the lake past Louise Falls and the Back of the Lake crag to basically the end of the Lake and walk across the ice and several creeks that feed the Lake to the other shore and slog up the approach slope. Resist the urge to walk down the center of the lake on a straight line to route, you will end up in a nasty bushwack in the center of the approach slope. There is almost no scwhacking against the cliff on the right side of the approach slope. The center of the approach slope is active avalanche slide path. Although P2 and P3 are mostly sheltered; spindrift, mushrooms and sluffs can release from above the climb and start slides that run down the approach slope.

Screws and a single rack from #0.2-#3 with doubles in the #0.5-#1 range. 2x 60M ropes.