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Fondling Chaos's Daughter

5.12, Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 3 votes
FA: Z Harrison, B McCord
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > W Sedona > Dry Creek Rd Area > Fay Canyon > Fay Buttress

DON'T RUIN THIS ROUTE

RAIN, SNOW AND WET ROCK:

The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a storm, the rock will remain wet for at least several days, and even longer after snow storms and areas with shady aspects. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB THESE ROUTES during or after rain/snow. This route and its neighbors see very little to no sun in the winter months and will dry very slowly. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

Description

Bonkers face climbing up a black streak of cast iron crimps and potatoes. The route is almost entirely devoid of gear.

Pitch 1 | 60' | 5.9 | Head up a immaculate slab to a break. 4 bolts.

Pitch 2 | 115' | 5.12- | Climb up thin crimps on perfect rock...just follow the bolts :)

Pitch 3 | 80' | 5.12- | More rad face climbing. Keep following the bolts to a nice ledge.

Pitch 4 | 115' | 5.12 | Move off the ledge and blast the sky boulder problem. From here continue straight up past gear and a few bots.

Rap the route with a single 70m rope.

Location

Follow the fay canyon trail to its terminus. Take the right fork all the way to the back. The route climbs the obvious black water streak and starts on a small ledge with a belay bolt.

Protection

1x Green c3 (Optional aid piece)
1x Red c3 - #1
15 draws
70m rope

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Pitch 4
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Pitch 2
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Pitch 3
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Pitch 2
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Pitch 2
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The Route. Approach shown in green
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Zach Harrison
Flagstaff
  5.12
[Hide Comment] Unbelievably fun, even if it is sport climbing! Easily some of the best stone in the choss sphere. Dec 5, 2018