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Road Block

5.10+, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 37 votes
FA: Karl Kelley, Heide Stanke
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Sinbad Wall aka Nucle…
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

This route starts with blocky face climbing for about 30'. The first few moves are in a shallow right-facing corner in the middle of the wall. The remainder of the route follows a finger crack through various features (shallow corners, small ledge).

I thought this to be an excellent intro finger-crack route, as there are only 2 short sections where the climber must make moves without good feet. In both cases, the crack has excellent finger locks (for most people).

This route holds sun for most of the day in late November.

Location

Directly behind the small tree in the middle of this section of the wall.

Protection

BD Camalots: 0.1 - 0.75 (?). Mostly 0.3 and 0.4.

Very small gear (0.1) is crucial to protect the first 30 feet, though the climbing is moderate.

Two bolt anchor at the top. I may be remembering incorrectly, but I think there is only one rap ring and the other bolt is just a hanger. Plan on rapping instead of lowering.

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Team purp giving her hell through the crux
[Hide Photo] Team purp giving her hell through the crux

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Cory N
Monticello, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Lower offs added courtesy of the ASCA. Please TR through your own gear. May 15, 2023