Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 117 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Nov 25, 2018
Admins: Tony Yeary

You & This Route


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Description

Amazing route with a super reachy crux. There is a next-to-impossible clip at the crux (in the middle of a dyno); I clipped it after making the crux moves.

The top anchor is at the very end of the first via feratta, and is used by guides to rappel with their clients (this does not interfere with the climbing, as there are two anchors here). Hint: you can hang the draws by walking to this anchor. This is also good for setting up a photographer, should you be into that.

Stick clip the second bolt (the first bolt is useless). Boulder up to a horizontal crack and follow this rightwards to a scrunched position below an open-book corner. Make a hard move into the corner, then up more easily to a pair of side-by-side pockets. Rest up, then go up and right over a small overlap, then work back left (crux, huge reach) across a steep, blank face to some good edges in a horizontal. Continue straight up with more cool moves to a final overlap. Over this to a fixed anchor.

Location

On a ledge right of Caribe atómico. The first bolt you can clip from the starting ledge; best to stick clip the second bolt.

Protection

Bolts, fixed anchor.

Photos

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