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Routes in Zona 15
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Al porro S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Alcatraz TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Aqui no hay princesas S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Caribe atómico S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cristal planet S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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De gerber para una princesa S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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De renga en renga S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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El aji S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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El cabro S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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El vikingo arrecho S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Gerber S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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La cumbia villera S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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La Gorgona T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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La Pepi con Aji S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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La pepitoria S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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La variante S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Legalize it don't criticize it S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Magic chuch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mañana le digo S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Orion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pingo arrecho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 813 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Jim Lawyer on Nov 25, 2018 |
| Admins: | Angelique Brown, Heliodor Jalba |
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Description
Amazing route with a super reachy crux. There is a next-to-impossible clip at the crux (in the middle of a dyno); I clipped it after making the crux moves.
The top anchor is at the very end of the first via feratta, and is used by guides to rappel with their clients (this does not interfere with the climbing, as there are two anchors here). Hint: you can hang the draws by walking to this anchor. This is also good for setting up a photographer, should you be into that.
Stick clip the second bolt (the first bolt is useless). Boulder up to a horizontal crack and follow this rightwards to a scrunched position below an open-book corner. Make a hard move into the corner, then up more easily to a pair of side-by-side pockets. Rest up, then go up and right over a small overlap, then work back left (crux, huge reach) across a steep, blank face to some good edges in a horizontal. Continue straight up with more cool moves to a final overlap. Over this to a fixed anchor.
The top anchor is at the very end of the first via feratta, and is used by guides to rappel with their clients (this does not interfere with the climbing, as there are two anchors here). Hint: you can hang the draws by walking to this anchor. This is also good for setting up a photographer, should you be into that.
Stick clip the second bolt (the first bolt is useless). Boulder up to a horizontal crack and follow this rightwards to a scrunched position below an open-book corner. Make a hard move into the corner, then up more easily to a pair of side-by-side pockets. Rest up, then go up and right over a small overlap, then work back left (crux, huge reach) across a steep, blank face to some good edges in a horizontal. Continue straight up with more cool moves to a final overlap. Over this to a fixed anchor.
Location
On a ledge right of Caribe atómico. The first bolt you can clip from the starting ledge; best to stick clip the second bolt.
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