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Always Blunt, Never Dull
5.12b/c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2.5 from 4
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Always Blunt, Never Dull S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Luke Bertelsen, Jon Mavko, Kemper Brightman - Nov. 2018 |
| Page Views: | 1,070 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Bertelsen on Nov 25, 2018 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Private land crossing and parking information - PLEASE READ BELOW !
Details
You walk across private land to enter this area. The landowner has been tolerant so long as we don't disturb his land or his cattle. To keep a good relationship with him it is extremely important that climbers don't mess with grazing cattle, and that ALL GATES STAY AS THEY ARE FOUND. Also, the large gate on the north side of the parking area MUST NOT BE BLOCKED IN ANY WAY; the rancher regularly uses this gate as he drives a truck pulling a large trailer, so the road leading to said gate MUST STAY CLEAR by least 40 feet on all sides, including the road perpendicular to it (running east-west). If the parking area is full, drive past the bridge and park on the next pullout (not far), and NEVER BY THE GATE.
Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.
Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.
Description
Always Blunt, Never Dull climbs an amazing rounded and slightly overhung arete with involved and improbable sequences the entire way. There is nary a crimp to be found on the entire route, but you will find a wide array of compression moves, toe hooks, heel hooks, and some kneebars thrown in just for good measure.
From low on the route the difficulty builds nicely, culminating in a hug and slap-a-thon just above mid-height. If you can climb through the crux you will still have to navigate a few more bolts of 5.11 before larger chert holds begin to appear and you can cruise up to the chains.
This climb is awesome and YOU should do it!
From low on the route the difficulty builds nicely, culminating in a hug and slap-a-thon just above mid-height. If you can climb through the crux you will still have to navigate a few more bolts of 5.11 before larger chert holds begin to appear and you can cruise up to the chains.
This climb is awesome and YOU should do it!
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